Hello every one
I’m wondering about the advantages that Z-ABS offers compared with other generic ABS. in terms of oder, warping and consistency what is the difference?
Thanks for participation
If you are using the Zortrax M200, ZABS offers a better print than generic. I have used generic and while it is good for price and to just print stuff for mock up, to print useable items, I use ZABS.
I personally haven't tested the difference in shrinkage warping or others because I could care less. If I need something that doesn't warp or shrink, I use Zultrat or PcABS to print with.
In my opinion, ZHips is kinda useless to me. I used two rolls of Zhips and one roll seems to be bad ( Prints nice but the print layers separate from itself when cooled ), while the other does offer me any benefits compared to the others.
If you want to know the exact differences, you will have to test, but if you are wondering about it to make an informed decision on whether to buy A Zortrax then I would say yes, buy a Zortrax. Not because of the price, but the quality of prints and the least amount of hassle to print things. As with other printers, you will have to test and test and tinker until you get the right setting, while Zortrax printers are ready from the get go.
Yes. You will have to work the machine. I see people buy them and expect it to change its own filament and adjust its own parts. hahaha If you work the machine and roll of your sleeves when it needs it, you will be satisfied!.
currently its either the zortrax or lulzbot mini. the mini makes excellent print quality and has a resolution of 50 microns as opposed to 90 for zortrax. so in case I'm printing something small like a miniature gear the mini (may) perform better. in addition the Z-suite imposes some limitations on the printer capabilities.
One last note, is the Z-ultrat brittle like PLA?
I haven't noticed ZUltrat being brittle at all, but I haven't printed any PLA except for colorfabb bronze fill so I can't compare.
You are aware the mini needs a computer hooked up to the printer the entire time of the print, right?
You are aware the mini needs a computer hooked up to the printer the entire time of the print, right?
Only at the start, when you are sending the file to print, after that you can disconnect it.
the mini does require a computer at all time but i have a spare old laptop and there are some gadgets that can go around this problem. However, according to most sites the zortrax has better accuracy and print quality than the mini and it looks safer wo leave alone while printing than the mini. I get this really good offer from the french seller of zortrax. they sell it cheaper than the origional company and as they told me it will come updated with V2 chamber and perforated board V2 along with free side panels. I might get it after all. 3d hubs released their 2016 guide on printers and the zortrax is at the top ahead of the mini
finally you got it.
Hello every one I'm wondering about the advantages that Z-ABS offers compared with other generic ABS. in terms of oder, warping and consistency what is the difference? Thanks for participation
In my experience Z-Abs have a better dimentional precision of printed parts.
Other generic Abs might perform well almost as Z-abs .
Z ABS prints best in the M200, and generic ABS requires the "mod that shall not be named".
There are some generic ABS that I've found to give a slightly stronger part, but the finish is just a little worse than Z ABS.
Surprised to hear the comment above about Z HIP, but I must admit I've heard it before (the delamination issue).
I love the stuff in grey! Prints absolutely beautifully for me.
I think the trick is no more than 20% fan, and I have sides and hood on my machines.
Extrudes beautifully.
currently its either the zortrax or lulzbot mini. the mini makes excellent print quality and has a resolution of 50 microns as opposed to 90 for zortrax. so in case I'm printing something small like a miniature gear the mini (may) perform better. in addition the Z-suite imposes some limitations on the printer capabilities.
One last note, is the Z-ultrat brittle like PLA?
I'm surprised no one else has commented on this yet.
50 micron print resolution is basically a marketing scam. The software can print 50 microns but there is next to no (if any) FDM machines that can actually, reliably, print 50 micron. Its just to small of a layer and causes tons of issues.
I'd recommend you talk to some Mini owners and see if any have ever actually done it.
I'm surprised no one else has commented on this yet.
50 micron print resolution is basically a marketing scam. The software can print 50 microns but there is next to no (if any) FDM machines that can actually, reliably, print 50 micron. Its just to small of a layer and causes tons of issues.
I'd recommend you talk to some Mini owners and see if any have ever actually done it.
is that so ?
but I see lots of poeple even using smaller resolution on the ultimaker