Z-Axis position lost?


I have had the m200 for under a week, so far less than 80 hours of printing. The quality of the prints are great, but I've now had an

issue with the z-axis position two times already.

During printing I noticed a section of the model wasn't how I wanted it, so i held the button down for 10 seconds to force the print to stop.

After going through the cancel options I moved the z-axis down to be clear of the nozzle for removing the plate. Power off, remove plug, and

remove plate to take partial print off.

Place the plate back in position, turn on, and try to start printing. The z-axis is at least 4-5cm lower than it should be, and it obviously

starts extruding spaghetti. I go through the calibration process, this completes fine, but the issue remains.

I have read up about the small 3 pin connector issues, so I removed the plate, and re-connected. It worked the first time, but it hasn't

worked this time. Now I'm getting error #042 Pad Probing problem.

Also, when signing up to this forum, my serial number was refused.

I have to say, whilst I’m very happy with the quality of the prints, you guys are letting me down in a couple key areas.

I was a Mechanical Engineer & CNC Machinist for over 12 years, and I can't believe that a flimsy 3 pin connector seems

to be the key issue here. Considering that you require the user to remove this connector for removal of EVERY print, this is

a major design flaw. Also, I am shocked that there are no limit switches for max stroke in Z-axis.

I'm in Melbourne, Australia. I assume I have to contact the re-seller about this issue yes?


If the calibration process (I assume you mean the semi-auto bed leveling thing) worked then it would seem not to be a connector issue, since the auto-leveling relies on the connector as well. Also, problems with the small connector usually manifest as the nozzle crashing into the plate, because a connection is not being made and sensing never happens. If you're getting premature sensing (bed stopped 4cm from where it should be) Then I suppose it could be due to a small piece of conductive material on the connector traces causing an intermittent short, but that seems a little far-fetched.

When the bed stopped 4cm too low, did it go through its usual little bouncing-up-and-down sensing dance and then move to the front left corner and sense again, or did it just stop dead and start printing? If the latter then I'd think it's a firmware issue. Maybe try reinstalling the firmware.

Hello Lewis, I had something similar to this. First I thought it was the perf. board and swapped it with a board I had extra. It seemed that it was a combination of the heater plate and perf. board. I tried a number of combinations perf. board/heater plate, but couldnt't quite figure out exactly what the issue was, so I asked Zortrax to sent me both new (under warranty). After that, problem solved!

Good luck with it!


Hey Julia,

Yes indeed it did do it's little bouncing up and down dance! It was quite entertaining, but alas, not very conducive to printing

unless I was making spaghetti themed performance art.

Bed leveling (calibration) works fine, it's once you initiate a print that it will go off and do it's normal positional dance, but it's doing it

3-4cm lower than it should. I powered up again and tried to print, this time it seems to be even lower, like an incremental offset keeps

being added.

John, I've sent an email to my re-seller, mentioning your experience, thanks for that.

I re-installed the firmware, still no good.


Hi Lewis,

you might check the stud screws on the Z-axis, the ones on the motor side and especially on the ball screw. Maybe they are not thigt enough and there is some slip.



I've seen this issue before.

There's a small voltage on the build plate, the printer senses platform contact when this voltage is grounded via the extruder nozzle. It appears there's a short and the platform is grounded elsewhere.

If you have a multimeter, jam the probes (-gently-) into the metallized pad on the build plate and against the Z-screw. Wiggle the platform a bit. If you're getting less than on the order of megaohms, you've got a short, most likely between the bottom of the perforated plate (the underside of the metallized pads) and the metal plate it's mounted to.

If that's the case, as a quick fix (which, disclaimer time, will slightly lower temperatures on the heatbed) you could put some kapton tape on the metal plate under where the metal pads are and that should fix the issue.

Hey Jacek,

Yeah I read about the kapton tape. My reseller here in Melbourne is sending out a new perf board and plate.

Hopefully that fixes the problem.

Is this support section of the forum supposed to have Zortrax employees helping out? Because the silence is deafening.

I'll update you guys once I've tested the replacement bits. If this gives me any more issues I'll be asking for a refund and

purchasing a different printer altogether.


Is this support section of the forum supposed to have Zortrax employees helping out? Because the silence is deafening.

Thanks Julia.

We can support each other!

I just fitted the replacement perf board, and it's working! I think I cried a little.

Here's something interesting. The reseller here in Melbourne has said they don't recommend removing the plate

to take off the print, rather they recommend to use the spatula with the plate left in place.

The Zortrax intro video shows them removing the plate. And all the prints I have done so far are super stuck to the perf board.

Ultrat-ABS is what I have been using.

Obviously not removing the plate would set my mind at ease regarding the flimsy connector, but i don't fancy having to use

force with a spatula inside the working area of the printer.

What are your preferred methods for removing the print?

Thanks a bunch for your help on this.

P.S I work in Computer Graphics doing VFX, and we do a lot of re-topologizing and sculpting on heavy

feature film assets, so if any of you are having a shitty time with your meshes, gimme a yell.


Take the plate out! Sometimes you need quite a big force to wrestle the model off the perf. board and the risk of cutting the connector with the spatula is high. There is also a risk to bend some metal bits on the platform. I remove the perf. board and I use for a rule to cover the connector with my hand (wearing gloves). Hopefully you won't cut your hand if the spatula slips, but you will always know where the connector is (under your hand) and direct the spatula away from it.

And should it slip and cut your hand, then it's much cheaper to bleed to death than to buy a new perf. board.

Yep, I agree. Thanks for confirming!