I've just received my first spool of Z-HIPS. Very excited, because I really have shrinkage issue with Z-ABS. But the model peel off the perf board after raft+4 or 5 layers ... I'm really disapointed !
Any suggestion ??...
Elmers washable school glue stick, apply a thin layer directly to the perf board.
You are having to make a large flat raft for a part and it is warping, nothing new here. A couple of things to try is to reset your level and make sure you are not super high in the middle and lower on the edges. (one of my printers is leveled at +-.2mm and the mid is at .4mm, which is causing issues with larger rafts) Also get your hands on some Elmers Purple Washable glue from any crafts store and apply a bit of that before every print (everywhere but on the contact pads). try those and see if that helps.
-NS
I didn't find Z-HIPS any better than Z-ABS so far as warping was concerned. On the plus side, tossing out warped ABS parts is cheaper than tossing out warped HIPS parts.
Just a wrong leveled platform...
There you go, Z-HIPS around 9 hours perfect adhesion. Brand new platform no sanding.
I use ABS+Acetone juice on the platform when printing HIPS, works well.
Thanks to all.
My platform is perfectly leveled, it's not the problem. And when I remove the raft, it peel of too easily, even from the center of the platform.
I didn't mentionned that :
- I own a vey old M200, V1, with original platform and orginal hotend. I don't know if the new hotend would help.
- the platform is perfectly leveled
- I removed evey "spots" under the platform and clean it with spatula and acetone
May be I need to buy a new platform ?
Drew + NS : the problem is that, in France, we do not have Elmer's glue stick ! I will try to find a local replacement.
Motordude : On the technical sheet, Z-HIPS is said to resist to acetone ? Anyway, I will try
I will post the solution, if I can find one ... :huh:
Thanks to all.
My platform is perfectly leveled, it's not the problem. And when I remove the raft, it peel of too easily, even from the center of the platform.
I didn't mentionned that :
- I own a vey old M200, V1, with original platform and orginal hotend. I don't know if the new hotend would help.
- the platform is perfectly leveled
- I removed evey "spots" under the platform and clean it with spatula and acetone
May be I need to buy a new platform ?
Drew + NS : the problem is that, in France, we do not have Elmer's glue stick ! I will try to find a local replacement.
Motordude : On the technical sheet, Z-HIPS is said to resist to acetone ? Anyway, I will try
I will post the solution, if I can find one ... :huh:
UHU-Stick works also perfect !
(some lines removed)
I didn't mentionned that :
- I own a vey old M200, V1, with original platform and orginal hotend. I don't know if the new hotend would help.
- the platform is perfectly leveled
- I removed evey "spots" under the platform and clean it with spatula and acetone
May be I need to buy a new platform ?
Motordude : On the technical sheet, Z-HIPS is said to resist to acetone ? Anyway, I will try
Your problem is that your print doesn't stick well to the perfboard and or the object warps too much because of shrinking. Z-HIPS of course is told to provide lower shrinkage and warping than ABS.
A new hotend does not help to prevent this, but the perfboard V2 helps prints to better stick to the perfboard.
One reason for this is that the V2 perfboard comes treated with ABS slurry and this improves adhesion of the print.
ABS slurry is created with acetone, but after you treated the perfboard with it it's gone.
Because it's gone then you don't have to think about acetone and Z-HIPS resistance to it, it has nothing to do with your problem.
Ahntlia showed proudly a print above wich is quite large but not difficult related to warping because it has a small footprint on the bed (it's not flat).
If you can print your part upright like this it would help too.
I use ABS+Acetone juice on the platform when printing HIPS, works well.
+1
I've just received my first spool of Z-HIPS. Very excited, because I really have shrinkage issue with Z-ABS. But the model peel off the perf board after raft+4 or 5 layers ... I'm really disapointed !
Any suggestion ??..
Hi Ted,
… it would be good plate version II …
Well, I did it !!
First : I've mounted my new V2 hotend.
Second : I made the ABS+acetone cocktail and paint my platform with it
Third : well ... nothing else, may be some incantations around my M-200 ...
the raft sticked perfectly to the platform. Thanks everybody.
Next time, I will try UHU stick, because ABS+Acetone, is not very convenient to use.
Well, I did it !!
First : I've mounted my new V2 hotend.
Second : I made the ABS+acetone cocktail and paint my platform with it
Third : well ... nothing else, may be some incantations around my M-200 ...
the raft sticked perfectly to the platform. Thanks everybody.
Next time, I will try UHU stick, because ABS+Acetone, is not very convenient to use.
The glue is my preferred method simply because it does not involve acetone and I can apply it to the build plate easily.
-NS
Next time, I will try UHU stick, because ABS+Acetone, is not very convenient to use.
No? I hold ABS-slurry in the jar (you don't need much ABS dissolved), make some moves with wet brush before printing and that's all...
I have a V1 with the original perf-board. After the first 25 hours of trail and error dealing with contraction and raft-release issues, I discovered that if I do the following for every new print (Z-ABS, Z-Glass, Z-Ultrat, Z-HIPS), I no longer have release issues.
(1) Thorough scrape and smooth the perf-board with the Zortrax scraper
(2) Gentle but thorough wipe of the perf-board with acetone, immediately followed with
(3) Application of the "ABS/Acetone Milk" over the heated printing surface.
(4) After 5 prints, remove perf-board, clean underside, re-bend, and auto-level.
No release issues over the last 75 hrs of printing 3D parts, big and small.
The V2 perf plate will not bend as much as the V1 can you might want to think about picking one up to see if it will help you cut down on this processing.