Hello 
It would be nice to have some good comparison photos - hard to see in the video.
Damn internet. Can’t hide anything to you guys! I took some pic’s but they was so bad. I will try again when better daylight.
Edit: I do this videos for fun, it is not meant to be too serious. I don’t edit videos or trying to make them all that fancy or special, i just point the camera and say some stuff that i have on my mind.
For good quality pictures I use Canon Digital Single-lens reflex camera with default lens, is hard to take good quality pictures of ABS prints which always looks better in real life than on low quality pictures opposite to PLA which mostly looks crappy shiny’ish but in low quality pictures is 10times better than in reality.
Best Regards
Why don’t you learn to shoot macro then, or perhaps some friend of your can shoot some pictures for you?
I would worry about the dimensions of prints rather of how they look. If parts don’t fit they are not of any use.
[quote name=cyansword]Why don’t you learn to shoot macro then, or perhaps some friend of your can shoot some pictures for you?
I would worry about the dimensions of prints rather of how they look. If parts don’t fit they are not of any use.
[/quote]
Don’t take this so serious. It is just for fun. And i wrote above that i must have better light to take better pic’s. Ok? No problem.
This guy manage to print very good robot on ultimaker 2
[quote name=cyansword]This guy manage to print very good robot on ultimaker 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m6ibk-zqw5w
[/quote]
It is quite good. But some things is not soo good. Belly not that good, ears not that good and alot off ringing on right side (10.20 in the video). But i think pattern on chest is better then on mine.
Watching the video arises a candid question: What about the glass plate? Isn’t it better?
[quote name=venosa]Watching the video arises a candid question: What about the glass plate? Isn’t it better?
[/quote]
It depends what you mean with better? If you mean mirrorlike finish at bottom yes glass is better.
I’m really asking a question it’s not a statement. I have no experience in 3D printing. So… as a complete newbie but not a complete dumb, I am asking if glass (borosilicate) doesn’t have better rigidity, planarity and maybe addesion?
[quote name=venosa]I’m really asking a question it’s not a statement. I have no experience in 3D printing. So… as a complete newbie but not a complete dumb, I am asking if glass (borosilicate) doesn’t have better rigidity, planarity and maybe addesion?
[/quote]
Yes for planarity. No for addesion. It is real hard to level bed with glass, it must pretty much be perfect level to get things to stick and also glue or haispary is almost mandatory. Zortrax way with raft is much more forgiving method.
With that said i like to print on glass but that is with PLA.
[quote name=venosa]Watching the video arises a candid question: What about the glass plate? Isn’t it better?
[/quote]
As I said elsewhere better alternative to zortrax plate is:
3d Ninja plate http://3dprinterninja.com/ninja-printer-plates/
Basalt bed substrate http://store.quintessentialuniversalbuildingdevice.com/product.php?id_product=50
DIY Conductive glass http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-Transparent-Conductive-FTO-SnO2-F-Glass-7ohm-sq-20-20-2-2mm-UAK-/181250403470?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a335dac8e
Printing plate must be straight and have good stability under heat and cold, else you get rounded bottom corners like now with zortrax perfboard.
Thanks Thruster!
[quote name=cyansword]As I said elsewhere better alternative to zortrax plate is:
3d Ninja plate http://3dprinterninja.com/ninja-printer-plates/
Basalt bed substrate http://store.quintessentialuniversalbuildingdevice.com/product.php?id_product=50
DIY Conductive glass http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-Transparent-Conductive-FTO-SnO2-F-Glass-7ohm-sq-20-20-2-2mm-UAK-/181250403470?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a335dac8e
Printing plate must be straight and have good stability under heat and cold, else you get rounded bottom corners like now with zortrax perfboard.
[/quote]
You can’t just replace the Zortrax plate with something else or it won’t calibrate in the Z-axis. Also, you do not get rounded corners with Zortrax prefboard if it is level. My raft sticks so well to the PCB now that it’s hard to scrape off sometimes!
[/quote=cyansword]
heat and cold ??? rounded corners ?
Check this first:
[quote name=The6uest][quote=cyansword]As I said elsewhere better alternative to zortrax plate is:
3d Ninja plate http://3dprinterninja.com/ninja-printer-plates/
Basalt bed substrate http://store.quintessentialuniversalbuildingdevice.com/product.php?id_product=50
DIY Conductive glass http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-Transparent-Conductive-FTO-SnO2-F-Glass-7ohm-sq-20-20-2-2mm-UAK-/181250403470?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a335dac8e
Printing plate must be straight and have good stability under heat and cold, else you get rounded bottom corners like now with zortrax perfboard.
[/quote]
You can’t just replace the Zortrax plate with something else or it won’t calibrate in the Z-axis. Also, you do not get rounded corners with Zortrax prefboard if it is level. My raft sticks so well to the PCB now that it’s hard to scrape off sometimes!
[/quote]
I’m not getting consistent results with the Z perfboard. I have a perfectly level bed (as perfect as it gets with the slight bow it has) but I get those raft lifts still every once in a while… Especially when it is a more elongated shape. But I will wait with my final verdict until I have seen the adhesion with the auto calibration implemented.