Bad Prints with M200

Zortrax M200 General Discussion
1

Hi

I have just recive my new M200 about two weeks ago. im not new in 3d printing, i have a couple of 3d printers.

the first prints cam out in very good quality.

but now i have some serious problems with print quality.

the layers do not bond together and in seems there are no continous material flow.

it do not depend on the material or software settings ( fan on/off) , i have the same problem on z-glasse, z-hips, z-abs and z-ultrat.

On Pic. Nr. 4 you can see the break during material flow.

when i load new fillament, the printer extrud the new fillament, then theres not break in the material flow, only during printing...

any ideas?

thanx

andy

2

Did you check all the wire connections?

Make sure the ribbon cable is attached firmly.

It looks like a loos connection to me but I don't know your set up.

Did you print out bearings to put the filament spool on? Might be too much drag when printing and the filament isn't feeding fast enough.

3

hi thanks for the fast feedback

i use the original spoolholder, but there is no stress, the spool can turn very easy.

the gap in printent material appears right from the start (see photo no. 4 ), so i guess its not from spool.

i will check an reattach the ribboncable, thats possible because during materialchange the flow seems perfact.

but not during print....

4

1194

bearing.stl

It might seem like free flowing but I had that happen in a couple prints when I first got the M200 and when i put the bearings o it was amazing. Just cause you can turn it doesn't mean the little stepper motor can turn it that easy.         But then it is only a thought. lol

I even had a print go bad the other day because my power cable was loose. It still printed but was messed up. I noticed the power cable loose but the machine never lost power. Pushed it in tight and the bad print was gone. 

I would check all the wires and make sure they are seated and tight and that the ribbon cable is set. 

I would also suggest printing some bearings. They really do work. I wouldn't believe it unless I saw it myself and I did. lol  

5

so thanks to your input, if have locate the problem.

i have seen ( like photo 4 ) that the gap appears always in the same distance.

so i take a close look to the extruder hobbet bolt. if the extruder make one round, always on the

same point the fillament slips ( the fillament has no strass ). and on the printsurface the gap appears.

so i dont now what i should do, open the extruder ( but i want not loos the warranty ).

send back to polen i also not a good option, maybe i can fix it my self...

6

....so i decide to open the extruder.

now i have see, that the hobbed bolt has no securing screw on it! does any one know if this right or do they forgot to put a screw on it? ( see photo )

what is the distance from the front of stepper shaft to the front of the pully? so i can fix it my self with a securingscrew.

than i have take a closer look to the hole printer and i have found this issue, see attached video (its zipped, because .mp4 are not allowed to upload ).

every of the 4 screw are loose....

ohoh its weekend, its raining and i have a new printer whicht ist defective.... bad bad ;-)

7

I had the same problem with my (now) 1 week old printer. Filament could block itself and then the motor could scratch into the blocked part, making little pieces of plastic everywhere... if you add this to the wrapping problem, I let you to imagine... <_<

1197

Typically.JPG

I fixed by cleaning all the plastic path: I cleaned the motor like you did, I also cleaned the path:

there was little pieces of (burnt) paper, burnt plastic and other dusts. Do have a look inside to verify it is all clean and empty of anything

  • Now, after each print, (photo 1)
  • I heat the extruder (photo 2)
  • I remove the nozzle (photo 3). Yes, I must wear gloves !
  • I wait it to be cold and I put it in Acetone for 4h30 (photo 4)
  • Then it is clean and I can remount everything (photo 5)

I now do the same after each print (yes, it is long, long, long  :blink:  but I think about buying a new hotend to swap them, one cleaning and the other one printing)

8

@zordroid

did your extruderbolt have a securing screw?

by the way, my nozzle and heatblock are in the acetone bath right now ;-)

9

It didn't stroke me. :huh:

I will unmount it for you today. I will take pictures and measures of mine.

10

wow, thats nice you make my day ;-)

11

Here are the photos !!!! :P

12

@ hey thanks man!

i have cleanup everything, tighten srew and now im ready for the test print.....

13

Mine's only 1.86mm ;)

14

Here are the photos !!!! :P

If you look at his photo, it looks to be on backwards too. Your screw is closer to the end of shaft. Might just be the pic though..

15

by the way, my nozzle and heatblock are in the acetone bath right now ;-)

You can use a fine brass brush to clean outside of nozzle and block when hot..

16

@Kyle

if have fix the screw that it do not hit the fillament during extrud. it seems it works well now, the test print loooks goot ( still on printing )

after acetone bath i have with a small brass brush with my dremel cleand it up, looks better then new ;-)

but it will not end, i think i have received a bad m200 unit.

druing mounting everything togehter i notice, that the two mainheaterblock screws also are loos...

now the main extruder cooling fan has loos contact. if think the cabel have to much stress they are very short.

the heat is now creeping up to the extuderstepper. and i have to figure out where the loos contact is...

the printer make during prints also quitly "klack" noise.

i really like this printer and the quality, but maybe i send this unit back for replace.

i expect from a new 2000.-€ printer, that is well build!!!

will decide on monday....

17

I had the same problem with my (now) 1 week old printer. Filament could block itself and then the motor could scratch into the blocked part, making little pieces of plastic everywhere... if you add this to the wrapping problem, I let you to imagine... <_<

attachicon.gifTypically.JPG

I fixed by cleaning all the plastic path: I cleaned the motor like you did, I also cleaned the path:

there was little pieces of (burnt) paper, burnt plastic and other dusts. Do have a look inside to verify it is all clean and empty of anything

  • Now, after each print, (photo 1)
  • I heat the extruder (photo 2)
  • I remove the nozzle (photo 3). Yes, I must wear gloves !
  • I wait it to be cold and I put it in Acetone for 4h30 (photo 4)
  • Then it is clean and I can remount everything (photo 5)

I now do the same after each print (yes, it is long, long, long  :blink:  but I think about buying a new hotend to swap them, one cleaning and the other one printing)

Why would you do this after Each print? Once in a while should be sufficient.

 I hadn't cleaned the inside of mine since.....I can't remember and I use the M200 a lot. After all I am a printing company. lol 

18

Why don't you fill the support form? I don't doubt they will find a solution.

19

Please contact with our Support https://zortrax.com/company/contact

20

I understood the ball screw securing screws were intentionally left loose, because ball screw nuts require very careful alignment. If that is the case and you secure it, it will wear and also cause motion problems. Leaving them slightly loose allows it to self-align.