Thanks for the info, Rafal.
How can this be fixed via z-suite if it does not show up on all printers?
And how does z-suite know which screw you have? What if you have a ball screw and a lead screw printer side by side (we will have this constellation soon at work) and both would get the z code from the same computer/z-suite?
Ok, understood! Thanks!
Support Team just gave me the same response, thak you guys I was really worried abput this issue.
Now I can expect the same precision on z Axis.
Xand Y are working great as long as you manage to set offset correctly.
I have solved the issue, but now the problem is that Z axis dimensions are incorrect, I 'm having deviations of 1mm on a 75 mm part wich is suppoused to measure 75.15 mm and it measures 75.16. The bed now is perfectly leveled, so well that the raft doesn't lift even a bit.
Even on a small part wich is suppoused to measure 17 mm I get 17.3 mm anyone else having this issue?
How did You solve this issue? I have the same problem and looking for solvation.
Hello. Did anybody have same problem? When my printer starts printing first layers of support it looks like printbed goes lil bit too high. I thought it is caused by bad leveling but ive spend a lot of time to level it properly. On the video you can see that printbed is definitely too high so there is no room for filament what makes extruder motor jumping. When extruder is not printing and moving X and Y then it sliding on already printed layer. Here are also some photos.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0WT07g0-Xc&feature=youtu.be
make sure the perfboard is cleaned underneath and does not bow up…make sure your nozzle tip is clean, so that the electrical contact can happen easily during the z cal.
Also check that there is no dent in the perfboard where the nozzle hits…that could cause it to end up too high. If you have a dent, then you could try to move the contact point a little bit by bending the metal levers on the homing micro switches slightly.
check that the little black wire going to the screw on the heater block is connected properly.
As Andre said, clean the tip. I use a fine brass brush on mine when heated. I also pull the small string from tip right before print starts. Make sure it just kisses the perf board.
I also have the same problem for several days.
The toothed wheel spins just like the video, during the first pass of the nozzle, only one place to the left front of the raft. This problem disappears from the second nozzle pass. But the third pass (first pass in the opposite direction with a finer mesh), the nozzle also bounces a bit. My plate is properly leveled and clean. But perhaps it is already time to clean the underside of the aluminum plate ? (I have the printer for a month and I used about 2 rolls of ZABS)
@Andre; I just cleaned the tip of nozzle and yes there was some dents underneath of center perfboard now is free of any abs there, all wires looks good to me. I don't understand what You mean ''If you have a dent, then you could try to move the contact point a little bit by bending the metal levers on the homing micro switches slightly''
@Kyle; I aiming to achieve that nozzle just kisses the perfboard but platform is going too and that's my issue.
Looks like cleaning tip of the nozzle solved my problem. Yeap definitely :) now is printing as it should i got my printer back and learned something new. Thank You guys for Your help :)
Andre means if the nozzle hits the the board too hard, it can put a dent in the top where it contacts it. This will cause the Zero to be off when it touches and create chaos..
Looks like cleaning tip of the nozzle solved my problem. Yeap definitely :) now is printing as it should i got my printer back and learned something new. Thank You guys for Your help :)
Glad you are up and running!!
I also have the same problem for several days.
The toothed wheel spins just like the video, during the first pass of the nozzle, only one place to the left front of the raft.
This problem disappears from the second nozzle pass.
But the third pass (first pass in the opposite direction with a finer mesh), the nozzle also bounces a bit.
My plate is properly leveled and clean.
But perhaps it is already time to clean the underside of the aluminum plate ?
(I have the printer for a month and I used about 2 rolls of ZABS)
Does it do it only on the raft? If it starts skipping during the print in that one spot, you may have a problem with the cable.
the problem only appears during construction of the raft.
After the Zortrax prints perfectly!
In fact, the problem appears at the beginning, when the Zortrax extruded many ABS for the first pass
Maybe the aluminum plate is a little too high and there is not enough space between the nozzle brass and aluminum plate to make room for as much matter ?
the problem only appears during construction of the raft.
After the Zortrax prints perfectly!
In fact, the problem appears at the beginning, when the Zortrax extruded many ABS for the first pass
Maybe the aluminum plate is a little too high and there is not enough space between the nozzle brass and aluminum plate to make room for as much matter ?
do a manual calibration with a feeler gauge between bed and nozzle.
Thank you for your answers.
But how to make a manual calibration? I did not see anything in the printer menu
Hello. I have those four nuts really loose is it correct. Left front of platform is much (0.2 mm isch) lower than the rest
Yes, the z-axis screws are supposed to be loose.
Axel, that’s why we call it manual. You do not use the menu. You just move the platform up by hand move the head around by hand and check the gap in all 4 corners with a credit card (printer is off!). Adjust until the gap is about the same everywhere.
The “calibration” in the menu is not really a calibration where correction factors are stored, etc. It just tells you what the gaps are…a credit card does that too…but the card allows you to correct the screws more intuitively.