:(
I am not sure I understand you …
Do you mean your prints don’t stick to the printing platform anymore?
Is your bed level and clean and flat? even your oils on your hand will stop it from from sticking, after checking that you can try this, after the printer lays down the first layer of raft take, a paper towel and wipe area that your having problems with acetone, that will help seat it to the bed ,
I have had good luck doing that, and one last thing do you have sides on your printer? with the weather getting colder your house might not be as warm that is a factor also.
I hope this helps :)
thank you for the advice I will try Monday
with the weather getting colder your house might not be as warm that is a factor also.
He's in Cameroon, I bet is at least warm :)
Do you have this problem ?
http://forum.zortrax.com/index.php?/topic/483-tips-tricks-warping-issue-solution/
Best Regards
Yes in Cameroon was no problem from the coldand here when I print I do not put air conditioning
Just the same here: Rio!
Hot, humid. no air conditioning while printing.
by 23 ° on the day
by 23 ° on the day
It's the same here near Chicago, but we go by °F. :)
23 C
:D
Hello,
I have severe bed Problems, edges always wrinkle up, even with tricks like small additional flat ob´jects at the outside
Bed is fully calibrated
It seems that new SW Version makes it impossible to cover whole printing area - just wasting lot of lot of material!!!!
Any idea how to solve that - I'm really at the end with my ideas after 3 weeks of testing and investigating.....
So when it wrinkles up nozzle always collides and this is definitely not good Long-term
When can I make serious builds again?
What have you tried ? Light sanding of bed ? Gluestick ?
Tried light sanding, no glue sticks
Tried to add some small "sticks" to protect build area from warping - helps but not for whole surface
No I will order a BuildTak
But why this works so Rally bad now? - use of Printer is very restricted!!!
Should I Change to old SW Version if that could help?
If you have access to Elmers glue sticks try this, but not the school grade. Over here they have an "extreme" version which works well.
Don't us Buildtak, as you need to allow access to the metal pads for bed levelling, as well as keep the surface the same height.
I don't think different s/w versions will help.
Are you using side panels and door ?
Lastly can you post a picture of a failed print, so we can see what sort of part you are printing, and how it is failing.
If you have access to Elmers glue sticks try this, but not the school grade. Over here they have an "extreme" version which works well.
I beg to differ I use the purple elmers school glue all the time and I get nothing but amazing results, never had lift with it.
[URL=http://s103.photobucket.com/user/Techbuilder/media/41wsxn6IawL_SY300_.jpg.html][/URL]
Off the shelf 'school grade' UHU glue stick and enclosure. 90% succes rate, some random lift-offs on large flat parts.
Printing large objects almost full bed size now non-stop for 3 weeks - no curling or lifting with UltraT and both Z-Suite 9.1 and 9.3. Elmer's Office Grade purple disappearing glue stick. Scrape off the old stuff then wipe with wet paper towel and reapply before every print. Not too much - just scribble lightly over the print area and avoid the sensing points. First layer of the raft should be half mushed into the holes and half on top of the bed. Enclosure panels are critical, must be used for these prints.