I know stringing has been an issue in the past that's come up a lot. I haven't heard much from people recently though. Most my prints if they involve jumping any sort of gaps using involves an entire web of stringing.
Was just curious if anyone else still has it this bad? Anything to improve it?
It happens on both my printers with most materials. Both are upgraded to 1.0.1 firmware with 1.4.1 Z-Suite. I keep my materials stored in containers filled with silicon beads to keep the humidity down. I've done just about everything I can think of. Unfortunately due to not having much control though there isn't to much I can do but live with it until a new change is tried or something.
I noticed a definite improvement across all 3 machines with the new firmware.
Have you tried REALLY cleaning your nozzle tips and hot end?
I keep spare nozzles in acetone and go through the following procedure when changing them.
I realize you are not a beginner by the way, just sometimes simple steps help.
1. Heat extruder and remove nozzle.
2. Extrude material with no nozzle in and clean area thoroughly with acetone afterwards.
3. Take replacement nozzle (soaking in acetone) and poke it through with nozzle cleaning wire, then heat it over a gas flame and throw it in methylated/white spirit while hot. Repeat if necessary, this cleans the tip much more thoroughly.
4. Remove stepper motor and clean gear with toothpick and brush.
5. Reassemble and extrude again.
Again, not calling you a noob, just how I do it and it has helped.
I really think extruding a couple of times with no nozzle in may help remove some gunk that ends up in the nozzle.
I noticed a definite improvement across all 3 machines with the new firmware.
Have you tried REALLY cleaning your nozzle tips and hot end?
I keep spare nozzles in acetone and go through the following procedure when changing them.
I realize you are not a beginner by the way, just sometimes simple steps help.
1. Heat extruder and remove nozzle.
2. Extrude material with no nozzle in and clean area thoroughly with acetone afterwards.
3. Take replacement nozzle (soaking in acetone) and poke it through with nozzle cleaning wire, then heat it over a gas flame and throw it in methylated/white spirit while hot. Repeat if necessary, this cleans the tip much more thoroughly.
4. Remove stepper motor and clean gear with toothpick and brush.
5. Reassemble and extrude again.
Again, not calling you a noob, just how I do it and it has helped.
I really think extruding a couple of times with no nozzle in may help remove some gunk that ends up in the nozzle.
Its a fairly fresh nozzle but I'll give it a good acetone bath, I also have an extra nozzle I keep freshly acetoned so I'll throw that on.
Last week I had the same issue, but with a lot of more strings. It happend after a clogged nozzle and an not complete cleaning of the nozzle.
I used a non Z filament and this seems to create residue in the "inside" of the nozzle. Cleaning in Aceton had no effect. To push the needle through the tip of the nozzle is not possible, when the nozzle is not heated. Finally I heated the nozzle with a gas lighter. It takes a while until the residue gets liquid and drops out (while dropping, it burns with a small flame). Now the nozzle was "free" and I could push the needle through.
But after installing the needle in the hot end an printing an objekt, the string occoured (what was not happend before). It was a strong geometric object, and the strings where always on the same side, so it was clear, that the nozzles surface must have an mechanical nick.
I unmounted the nozzle again, putted in my lathe and planed the surface on the top. Afterward sanded the surface with a fine sandpaper, and tata, now it works perfect for at least 60 printing hours.
I know, not everbody owns a lathe, but using a sandpaper and smooth the surface after cleaning might be helfpfull (and it´s cheaper compared to a new nozzle).
I now, not everbody owns a lathe, but using a sandpaper and smooth the surface after cleaning might be helfpfull (and it´s cheaper compared to a new nozzle).
If you calculate the wasted printing time, filament and your work between the cloggs and the liberated nozzle, maybe a new nozzle would be the better deal. ;)
I have no lathe, no time and patience, I just swap the nozzle in such situations.
So in one of your machines do you only use Z filament and the other you don't?
Don't have a solution to your problem, just curious based on your other thread.
I briefly tested out some PLA in one of my older M200's, not the one currently in question for the stringing. I haven't used it in months though and have since bought a Flashforge Creator Pro for any PLA work. Besides for PLA the only other materials I use for all my machines is Z-materials.
Actually my solution for the current problem, since they cant send me a replacement motherboard which seems to be the issue, is to use the Z-Temp just to get it to go up to the proper original temperature for Z-ABS. Currently have it boosted by 40c just to get it to print right.
Actually my solution for the current problem, since they cant send me a replacement motherboard which seems to be the issue, is to use the Z-Temp just to get it to go up to the proper original temperature for Z-ABS. Currently have it boosted by 40c just to get it to print right.
If it is like that, I cannot see where the Controller should be the issue, since Z-Temp only offsets the sensor reading for the Controller.
So if you have stable temp and printing with it, I would tell it has to be the thermo couple / extruder PCB / cabling.
If it is like that, I cannot see where the Controller should be the issue, since Z-Temp only offsets the sensor reading for the Controller.
So if you have stable temp and printing with it, I would tell it has to be the thermo couple / extruder PCB / cabling.
After having some strong coffee I would add: Maybe your M200 is addicted to it's Z-Temp and could not live without it? :ph34r:
To your first post I completely agree, it makes no sense. I ended up going down to a +30 as +40 was oozing a little too much. But after that I printed for about 6 hours last night and every print looked perfect. Not a single issue like I was having before.
I agree, maybe the Z-Temp is like crack and my machine was going through withdrawals.
It happens that the 0.40 mm hole is not perfect clean so the "effettive" diameter will be, for example, 0.38 mm.
It happens that during printing the 0.38 mm hole cannot extrude the 100% of the material so when the nozzle move from a part to other it continue to extrude the material.
This happens, for example, when u use a non z-abs abs with a diameter of about 1.78-1.80 mm: Z-ABS are all 1.74-1.75.
About non Z-ABS, i tested a lot of othe ABS and the only one that work exactly how the ZABS is the Real ABS (RRW) that cost 21 €/ 1 kg.
