Firmware Feedback


#41

Downloaded again as well and still got -> 8a5e46c0de613d2fd2489523fd850bb7

I also checked the update.bin on my SD card that I used to update my machines -> 8a5e46c0de613d2fd2489523fd850bb7

Size for both: 118,613 bytes


#42

8a5e46c0de613d2fd2489523fd850bb7 here


#43

Ah, my Windows 10 machine unzips to the 8a5e...0bb7 while my OSX machines unzips to the ca33...5cb3

I'll try updating with the "Windows" version when my current print finishes...


#44

Ah, my Windows 10 machine unzips to the 8a5e...0bb7 while my OSX machines unzips to the ca33...5cb3

I'll try updating with the "Windows" version when my current print finishes...

Yup, that worked, the "Unzipped under Windows" file upgraded me to 1.0.5, where the "Unzipped under OSX" file failed.

Go figure.  You might want to note that in your instructions...


#45

I already posted these in another topic, but since you asked for feedback:

1 - The knob on the front of the machine turns the opposite way from what I'd expect. Since it's on the right side of the display, I expect clockwise to move the cursor up, and vice-versa. It does the opposite.

 

2 - The auto-calibration procedure talks about "clockwise" and "counter-clockwise" but that isn't helpful, because it depends if you look at the screws from above (as when standing; from there you can't actually see them) or from below (as when sitting and looking at the screws).

 

I eventually figured out that you mean "clockwise AS VIEWED FROM ABOVE", but it's far from obvious. Best to say it explicitly.

 

BTW, the same goes for the video illustrating changing the nozzle. The video says to install the new nozzle by turning counter-clockwise, but the video shows the nozzle turning clockwise (because the camera is below the nozzle instead of above it).

 

Maybe in Polish these things are unambiguous, but in English they're not. 

 

 

Feedback re non-firmware issues:

 

3 - Use consistent names for things. I think I saw 5 different names for the filament guide thing on the back of the M200. Took me a while to realize they were all referring to the same thing. And "Z-ABS Juice" (online manual) vs "Z-Liquid" (sticker on the platform)??? It's pretty confusing - make a glossary and stick to it.

 

4 - The calibration screws (under the heated platform) are too difficult to turn. If they had a larger diameter it would be much easier.

 

5 - The documentation that came with my unit talks about a USB cable. There isn't even a USB port, let alone a cable. Remove those mentions.

 

6 - It would be very helpful to have a SINGLE PDF with all the manual information, instead of needing to download 20 or 30 files from the website, one on each topic. (I like to have things available offline.)

 

7 - The website talks about maintenance and lubrication, but doesn't say what kind of lubricants to use.

 

I hope this is helpful...


#46

I simply quote myself:

 

1. We are trying to use Filament Guide name everywhere, but we cannot force users all around the world to stop naming it "Teflon Tube at the back" for example :) As for the Z-Liquid, can you get me a photo of that sticker?

  1. Its hard to say anything about that, it works exactly I would expect. I’m aware that repraps/arduino LCDs works in opposite way but to be honest it felt unnatural when I was using it. 

  2. You are making your life difficult, clockwise is clockwise, no matter what angle you are using. Take your wall clock and look at it from the bottom, hands still moving clockwise. ps. there is an arrow which shows direction. 

  3. Noted

  4. Its not necessary, any other colors than white will leave a mark on your plate but that won’t affect your prints. 

  5. That would be hell of the book, wouldn’t it? A lot of manuals have videos, that one-file support file would hurt our bandwidth badly.

  6. You should get grease with your printer, that should be enough for a while.

 

To answer no 5, please send me your SN through PM.

BTW, the same goes for the video illustrating changing the nozzle. The video says to install the new nozzle by turning counter-clockwise, but the video shows the nozzle turning clockwise (because the camera is below the nozzle instead of above it).[/size]

 

Maybe in Polish these things are unambiguous, but in English they’re not.

 
Unscrew the nozzle clockwise. Use the nozzle key from the Starter Kit box. 
Removing the nozzle should take place while the extruder is still hot. When the nozzle is loose, take it out using pliers.
http://support.zortrax.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Nozzle-Replacement-03-unscrew-remove-nozzle-1.mp4

 

Thats clockwise.


#47

Umm, unless you are using left-hand threads, it should be pretty obvious which way to unscrew a nozzle, and if the front of the bed is low, which way to turn the thumbscrew (OK, technically a nut) to raise the front of the bed.

[I especially like the count of number of turns I should turn it to make the indicated change, calibrating the bed took one try instead of the hours I spent on it with the older firmware...]


#48

Just calibrated my bed and found the mm measurement and number of turns tip, something I suggested would be a good addition over a year ago - VERY happy to see this and an incredibly useful timesaving feature, I couldn't stand turning the screw half a turn each time and watching the printhead go back and forth in a tormentingly slow fashion.

Thanks for this addition. 


#49
http://support.zortrax.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Nozzle-Replacement-03-unscrew-remove-nozzle-1.mp4
 

Thats clockwise.

That video is how I figured out that you meant "clockwise from above".

I'd call that counter-clockwise. The convention for screws is to view them from the head of the screw (the part you turn with a tool). At least in my experience.


#50

That video is how I figured out that you meant "clockwise from above".

I'd call that counter-clockwise. The convention for screws is to view them from the head of the screw (the part you turn with a tool). At least in my experience.

Mine too - maybe Poland has a different convention.


#51

Autocalibration 1.06 Firmware

Hy,

It seems that when using the Autoclibration there could be a chance to crash the z-axis.

I like to have my printbed down when doing maintenance........so in this moment I tried the new Autocalibration and my bed moves down around 7mm....

Now I was really close to hit the lower ballscrew holder.....I canceled the Autocalibration and did it again...and it moves again down.....

Shortly before I hit the lower point I stoped.

Maybe  You should check if the printbed moves still down when u are at the lowest point...I am afraid to do it with mine, but I was already really close to the lowest point ;-)))

What I dont like is, when is doing the Autocalibration it moves several times above the same positions....but there could be small filament dots!

Where I can change the points for the calibration...if I remeber well, there should be a chance to define or change the points,or do I misunderstud?


#52

When I cancel a print in 1.0.6 using the button-pause feature, the platform goes too far down, causing the z-axis to bottom out and possibly damaging the coupler :(


#53

Autocalibration 1.06 Firmware

 

Hy,

 

It seems that when using the Autoclibration there could be a chance to crash the z-axis.

 

I like to have my printbed down when doing maintenance…so in this moment I tried the new Autocalibration and my bed moves down around 7mm…

Now I was really close to hit the lower ballscrew holder…I canceled the Autocalibration and did it again…and it moves again down…

Shortly before I hit the lower point I stoped.

 

Maybe  You should check if the printbed moves still down when u are at the lowest point…I am afraid to do it with mine, but I was already really close to the lowest point ;-)))

 

What I dont like is, when is doing the Autocalibration it moves several times above the same positions…but there could be small filament dots!

Where I can change the points for the calibration…if I remeber well, there should be a chance to define or change the points,or do I misunderstud?

 

It happens due the fact that we are unable to determine table position before calibration, that should prevent crashing nozzle into plate. Coupler prevents mechanical damages in that case. However funny that sounds, its not a bug - its a feature :slight_smile:

What I dont like is, when is doing the Autocalibration it moves several times above the same positions....but there could be small filament dots!

Where I can change the points for the calibration…if I remeber well, there should be a chance to define or change the points,or do I misunderstud?

Autocalibration should now choose random points, you cannot choose it on your own


#54

OOOOHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH   MY GOD !!!!!!!!!!! "Introducing External Materials"


#55

wow.

Game changer, thank you. Just a note, would be good if there was a way of reviewing the settings once a file has been sliced, its not visible in z-suite in the info bar, or on the printer... but I am definitely not complaining this is a HUGE step, and honestly puts the m-series at the very top of the FDM market...

Thank you Marcin and Zortrax.


#56

Wow, that comes unexpected.

Now I'm considering...


#57

wow.

Game changer, thank you. Just a note, would be good if there was a way of reviewing the settings once a file has been sliced, its not visible in z-suite in the info bar, or on the printer... but I am definitely not complaining this is a HUGE step, and honestly puts the m-series at the very top of the FDM market...

Thank you Marcin and Zortrax.

noted, thanks for kind words. It is indeed huge step forward. 


#58

Whaouh ! V 1.10 -> Externals materials with Températures, Speed,  Flow ... ajustments !

Difficult to believe, is really the arrival of the mode "expert" so much claimed!

 

THANK YOU Z-TEAM


#59

It is revolution !!!  :o  :blink:  :D 


#60

Now that the secrecy about temperature is history: can we talk about displaying bed/extruder temperatures on the OLED while printing again?

It would help people diagnosing problems with temperature drops e.g. due to excessive cooling or too high extrusion etc.

Would be another step towards perfection...