Marcin, Do you talk about the nozzle / bed temperature display during printing?
And also display and change temperature when load / unload ?
If you knew how simple these little things are going to make a lot of users happy! :) :wub:
More like Hotend & bed temperature (during printing)
And also display and change temperature when load / unload ?
Yes, now material is being loaded/unloaded with constant 240*C, which could be too high for some materials and could be causing leaking
Thankyou Zortrax team, awesome update!
Wonderful !
ZSuite 1.10.0 is the millenium release!
:lol: :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :)
IMHO it would be worth calling it Z-Suite 2.0 because "External Materials" is a really comprehensive feature!
^_^
Did a first quick test of Make's negative_space_tolerance_test with 1.10.0: It's the first time, that I could remove all pegs effortless - this time also the peg at "0.2", because now it has a very thin gap to the base part.
:)
(Ultrat@0.09mm/InFill=Low/Angle=0°/NoSuppLite/OContours+Holes=0.00/NoSmartBr/TLay=5/BLay=4/Fan=Auto)
Is anyone else finding the new calibration in the latest firmware a bit hard to dial in?
Thank you Zortrax! I just tried wood filament using the settings: ABS-based filament, Extrusion Temp 200, Platform Temp 30 (doesn't need heated bed but this is as low as it goes). I think the model printed really well. Have some stringing but I'm sure changing the retraction settings will take care of that. Raft removed easily too.
When I use Z-ABS White it prints in a color similar to a manila folder. Could these new settings help print this as white? What settings would be recommended?
When I use Z-ABS White it prints in a color similar to a manila folder. Could these new settings help print this as white? What settings would be recommended?
Maybe the nozzel is dirty front the pigment of other materials previously used. I have had this problem, only way i sorted was having it print white for 30mins to clean it out.
Thanks but that’s not it. I printed for hours with no change and even changed the hot end and nozzle. Still doesn’t print white.
Thanks but that’s not it. I printed for hours with no change and even changed the hot end and nozzle. Still doesn’t print white.
Hello there!
I’ve updated the firmware, and I have the same problem with after all my prints (M200) when the machine is switching to standby mode. The sd card can’t be read and I have to reconnect it everytime.
My prints aren’t affected but it’s a bit anoying because my printer is running almost h24 :s
I also have a big problem with Z-suite, with the rotation tool, it’s totally in disorder. I mean, when I whant to flip a piece for 90degrees, it’s like 75 or more, it’s totally random, and same with the cursor.
It’s the first time I have a problem with the firmwae and z-suite in almost 1800h of printing.
It the problems can be solved fast it would be amazing! I can’t rotate the pieces I need for an important print…
Even if I have thoose two problems, this is the best printer I found and I’m not disapointed by it at all 
Maybe the next one will be the M300 because I need a huge bed for my prints. (ultimakers are good but not better than the m200 for the precision and the maintenance.)
Hi Tiara,
suggestion: Get an AirFlash W-03 - it work's like a charm.
Even if the printer is in standby mode, I can transfer new stl files on it and after the standby I have no problems using the new files from the card (FW 1.1.0)
Hello there!
I’ve updated the firmware, and I have the same problem with after all my prints (M200) when the machine is switching to standby mode. The sd card can’t be read and I have to reconnect it everytime.
My prints aren’t affected but it’s a bit anoying because my printer is running almost h24 :s
I also have a big problem with Z-suite, with the rotation tool, it’s totally in disorder. I mean, when I whant to flip a piece for 90degrees, it’s like 75 or more, it’s totally random, and same with the cursor.
It’s the first time I have a problem with the firmwae and z-suite in almost 1800h of printing.
It the problems can be solved fast it would be amazing! I can’t rotate the pieces I need for an important print…
Even if I have thoose two problems, this is the best printer I found and I’m not disapointed by it at all
Maybe the next one will be the M300 because I need a huge bed for my prints. (ultimakers are good but not better than the m200 for the precision and the maintenance.)
My colleague introduced me your case today. We've just received a STL and ZCODE and however I would try to rotate it, it works just fine. One thing wonders me - on the screens that you've provided, despite that model is checked, Z-SUITE is not showing any values (dimensions, model name and volume) [pic1] and I suspect that has something to do with that error that you've had while opening Z-SUITE. [pic2]
As for the SD card, are you using standard SD card, Zortrax branded, 3rd party one or maybe WiFi?
Dear Zortrax... could you please check the following issues:
- Z-ULTRAT is stringing (bad ond M200 and even worse on M300)... please fix retraction
- distance between nozzle and bed for first layer is too low on M300 (compared to M200). I calibrated 10 times with clean nozzle and bed and it doesn't help. layer gets squished to much and only the slightest uneven areas of the bed end in extruder clicking and extrusion-interrupts... please set this a little larger
- please implement templates for Z-Ultrat for M300 even if there are no 2000g spools available at the moment
- every now and then burn-marks on print. Is it really not possible to fix this?
- on my M200 theres always Z-Ultrat leaving the nozzle as soon as it's hot (and if I start a print this debris drop on the bed and can even lead to misprints)
Thanks for improving in advance ;)
John
Dear Zortrax... could you please check the following issues:
- Z-ULTRAT is stringing (bad ond M200 and even worse on M300)... please fix retraction
- distance between nozzle and bed for first layer is too low on M300 (compared to M200). I calibrated 10 times with clean nozzle and bed and it doesn't help. layer gets squished to much and only the slightest uneven areas of the bed end in extruder clicking and extrusion-interrupts... please set this a little larger
- please implement templates for Z-Ultrat for M300 even if there are no 2000g spools available at the moment
- every now and then burn-marks on print. Is it really not possible to fix this?
- on my M200 theres always Z-Ultrat leaving the nozzle as soon as it's hot (and if I start a print this debris drop on the bed and can even lead to misprints)
Thanks for improving in advance ;)
John
Could you get me a sample model that is causing you issues with stringing? Im gonna print it just to make sure its not overheating. As for M300, are you sure you haven't got V1 plate?
Have you tried ABS Based @ 260 / 80* to print ultrat@m300, you can also slightly increase retraction distance (+1mm).
Some specific material is causing burn-marks issue?
It shouldn't happen just for the Z-ULTRAT, im starting to suspect that you received faulty spool, besides, it wont affect print, raft or skirt gonna cover it ;>
If you are having retraction problems, check the set-screw that holds the filament-feeding gear onto the stepper motor shaft, mine was loose...
Marcin, Ultrat builds up on the outside of the nozzle, bakes to a wonderful golden-brown (regardless of it's original color) and drops off at random points on your print. Happens to me all the time.
Is anyone else finding the new calibration in the latest firmware a bit hard to dial in?
I do.. :P
Spend an hour and a half trying to calibrate the plate and finally had to downgrade the firmware to do a proper calibration because its more accurate and easier to balance left and right points at first and then move to rear and front adjustments. So please guys at zortrax reverse the order of checking, make it as it was before (Rear corners first, front corners last)
I do.. :P
Spend an hour and a half trying to calibrate the plate and finally had to downgrade the firmware to do a proper calibration because its more accurate and easier to balance left and right points at first and then move to rear and front adjustments. So please guys at zortrax reverse the order of checking, make it as it was before (Rear corners first, front corners last)
I was beginning to think it was just me :D
I'm back on 1.0.5, which is a shame as I can not use the new material options now.
I was beginning to think it was just me :D
I'm back on 1.0.5, which is a shame as I can not use the new material options now.
When I need to calibrate the plate I install 1.0.5 and after calibration is finished I install 1.1.0 again. This way I can use the new features with out restrictions..it's a bit silly I know but it works for me :D
When I need to calibrate the plate I install 1.0.5 and after calibration is finished I install 1.1.0 again. This way I can use the new features with out restrictions..it's a bit silly I know but it works for me :D
You can always use manual calibration using business card