Hello,
I now have a Zortrax since 6 weeks and printed a lot of items with it.
I must say i'm very disapointed because it's impossible to have a straight bottom on the prints.
It's always warping whatever I try (closing the sides of the printer, even the top, using ABS slurry, etc...)
Once the part is bigger than 6cm it warps.
For smaller prints, the quality is perfect.
I understand that you looking for perfectly flat bottom without any deviations ?
Z-ABS is best for drafts and art Z-ULTRAT is the way to go if you need strength and lower warping if you looking for something even more warping resistive then Z-HIPS/Z-GLASS
Best Regards
Yes indeed.
I'm printing with Z-UltraT for the moment and on prints of 12cm length, the corners lift up to 3mm.
Even when deciding to add 6mm on the bottom of the print (so I can cut it away later to have a flat bottom) the print is cracking in some corners.
There is way too much retraction in these materials.
When I print on my witbox, I can have a perfectly flat print on the total length of 29cm by 21cm width. But this is with PLA from Colorfabb.
I think the solution is to print PLA with the zortrax but it's impossible because we can't define the temperature.
The reason I don't use Z-HIPS or Z-GLASS for the moment is that I need to print in specific colors (without painting it)
Best regards,
Yes indeed.
I’m printing with Z-UltraT for the moment and on prints of 12cm length, the corners lift up to 3mm.
Even when deciding to add 6mm on the bottom of the print (so I can cut it away later to have a flat bottom) the print is cracking in some corners.
There is way too much retraction in these materials.
When I print on my witbox, I can have a perfectly flat print on the total length of 29cm by 21cm width. But this is with PLA from Colorfabb.
I think the solution is to print PLA with the zortrax but it’s impossible because we can’t define the temperature.
The reason I don’t use Z-HIPS or Z-GLASS for the moment is that I need to print in specific colors (without painting it)
Best regards,
Do you can touch carefully platform and check is it really hot at print time, problem with lifted corners should don’t exist in parts which such of small size and even bigger the problem can be with your heated bed or bed calibration.
Please submit your request with description and file here: http://support.zortrax.com/hc/en-us they will check it - technical support team can be reached only there.
Best Regards
The platform is hot at print time. Sometimes the raft stays in place on the printbed, but you can see the prints warping after some time. I even glued the corners of the raft with with instant glue but with the shrinking of the ABS it will tear the raft off the bed a little further.
On prints with a length of 6cm, the raft will not lift from the bed, but the bottom of the print is allways curved due to shrinkage.
Best regards,
How thin are the walls you are trying to print? Without pics we really can't see what is going on to try and help. you. Everyone loves pictures!!!!
The platform is hot at print time. Sometimes the raft stays in place on the printbed, but you can see the prints warping after some time. I even glued the corners of the raft with with instant glue but with the shrinking of the ABS it will tear the raft off the bed a little further.
On prints with a length of 6cm, the raft will not lift from the bed, but the bottom of the print is allways curved due to shrinkage.
Best regards,
My theory is that the perforated sheet is lifting from the heated build plate, that what seems to be happening with mine.
Once I get my heated enclosure built, I think I may try gluing my spare perforated sheet onto a 3 or 4mm cut and drilled aluminium stiffener plate.
I don’t know…especially on taller, boxy type stuff I think it’s normal for ABS to not be perfectly flat on the bottom… Even certain prints I got out of a stratasys have a slight curve on the bottom…
I just see that as a given and design/orient the parts accordingly or, as a last resort, use HIPS…
That said…3mm on a 120mm long part is of course too much…I wonder if your extruder is too hot (or at least on the hot end of the tolerance range)? If I remember correctly Cesar had a too hot extruder from the factory…?
The most important is to turn off fan cooling (0%) it will help for bigger prints.
Best Regards
Hello,
Thanks for your replies.
Here are some pictures of my problems.
Maybe HIPS will be a solution but my prints have to be in the right color.
The buildings on these pictures were printed with fan off and on. Same problem.
I even tried with the printer closed on the sides and top but it didn’t help.
My perforated board is not lifting from the base plate.
Best regards,
Hi,
What infill did you use? It is too much volume inside. For such a models light infill is the way to go. Any reason why to not print it hollow? Than there would be no warping and you could save a time and material.
I tried different methods.
The first method is a closed polysurface. It prints with a shell width of 1.4mm with light infill. Too much warping. (small building with tower on the pictures)
After that I drew a hollow building with 5mm thick walls. Full infill. (church profile on picture). That didn't help at all.
I really don't know what to do to have nice prints.
I would recommend trying to stress relieve the part in an oven - theres a chance that it would de-warp the print. It's already a failed print, so it can't hurt to try, right? I would suggest a temp of 210-220F (99-105C). Put it in the oven on a baking sheet, bring it up to temp, leave for half an hour, shut off the oven and let it cool slowly.
Theres several of us that have been planning on trying this, so if you try it let us know how it goes!
The pictured building looks a lot bigger than 6 cm across to me. I have problems with ABS prints that are rectangular or square and larger than about 12-14 cm on at least one side and the warping problem decreases with size, presumably due to stress because hot ABS cools. Circular objects seem to print much better so far as warping goes. Other users have reported success after applying acetone/ABS slurry or Emer's Glue Stick to the perf board before printing and several other techniques but none of them has really helped me for rectangular or square footprint items with mostly full interiors. As someone else suggested, perhaps hollowing out that part would help.
Mike
I'm seeing this in all my parts, parts are 11cm x 11cm and 11cm x 15cm, not sure what to do, edges are off by a couple mm. (Couple mm shorter than center). unable to produce any mechanically accurate parts (Nothing will fit together), very frustrating. Tried Elmer's glue stick, the base does not look like it is coming loose, but the edges of the part are still shorter than the center, at first, I thought it was because I had removed the part too early and in the process had compressed the edges. M200 in enclosed with side panels. How long should I wait to remove the part?
it's just the nature of the beast...
http://palmiga.com/design-2/design/warpage-curl-free-3d-printing/
it's just the nature of the beast...
http://palmiga.com/design-2/design/warpage-curl-free-3d-printing/
The parts i’m printing are parts of a 3D puzzle for a museum. It has to look like that and needs to have that exact color.
I bought the Zortrax for his printing quality but if I can only print small parts on it, it’s useless.
I’m printing again on my Witbox with PLA and my building are absolutely flat. The quality is a little less than the Zortrax but with Slic3r I managed to improve this quality a lot.
Here’s another picture of the test. As you can see the bottom is open and the walls are 5mm thick.
While reviewing the Z-Suite-Manual I noticed the sample part is very similar to what I am trying to print. How did this part print without warping? The part is 125mm x 122mm.
http://support.zortrax.com/hc/en-us/articles/201809922-Z-Suite-Manual
Will switching to Z-ULTRAT or Z-HIPS help? What was the sample robot arm printed in?
I'm allready using Z-ULTRAT. I can't use Z-HIPS because of the colors.