I would recommend trying to stress relieve the part in an oven - theres a chance that it would de-warp the print. It's already a failed print, so it can't hurt to try, right? I would suggest a temp of 210-220F (99-105C). Put it in the oven on a baking sheet, bring it up to temp, leave for half an hour, shut off the oven and let it cool slowly.
Theres several of us that have been planning on trying this, so if you try it let us know how it goes!
I'll try it, but honestly, I don't believe it will be better after that.
I just forgot to bring the part home to put it in the oven.
While reviewing the Z-Suite-Manual I noticed the sample part is very similar to what I am trying to print. How did this part print without warping? The part is 125mm x 122mm.
This part was designed long time ago by engineer responsible for injection molding - they handle warping everyday and following many rules to fight with it, overall rounded corners.
It is not like a everything designed can be turned into plastic in the injection molding process warping is something with which designers use to live and simplest solution is to redesign.
Google for “injection molding warping” should show you this phenomena just look at design phase not cooling rate, cavity pressure, fill rate, melt temp etc. is not important.
Also if you look at any injection molded part you can see that this parts are always tricky, thin and contain ribs, this is number one for correct parts to make it thinner and add ribs for strength and stability. Also do not think about part/walls to have it strong and solid as stone.
Of course if something is small then is more forgiven but for bigger parts then more you should look at injection molding rules.
Thanks for your answer, but this doesn't always help.
In my case, I have to print simple buildings but they need to have exact dimensions as this is a reconstruction of an old existing abbey.
I was very happy to buy this printer and I wanted one since the beginning but when I had to buy my first printer, I couldn't have the Zortrax on time. That's why I bought the Witbox.
The reason I bought the Zortrax afterwards was to improve the quality of the prints but honestly, now the Zortrax stays off and I'm using the Witbox again.
one solution i follow in such cases (which i hope they were less, and i am not talking about raft lifting from platform, i never get this), at least when the original design allows it, is to extend the height (tweaking the bottom) for a few mm so as to have a healthy headroom to bring the bottom part flat with post processing and at the same time to eventually have the whole part dimensional accurate.
Sorry Archimaide, understood, I can use Z-HIPS for my project and was wondering if it has the same warping issues.
I'm reviewing my design to be as anti-warp friendly as possible. From the Manual and comments it looks like it's possible if the design changes. I'll update the thread with my results.
I've only had one print lift. it was on 120mm diameter, stopped the print and imeditaly reprint without lift or warp (or very little warp). I only been printing for 3 months and have noticed when removing the raft from the table there are two areas on my table that come off very easy they almost fall off. Not sure if this is a big problem that I should contact someone. Right now I place the center of the part in that area or avoid them all together.
Did you try to print the building with the smallest side on the platform?
You could also split it along the long side and print that sitting on the smallest side (= thin and tall)
Or you could split it along the short side and give the ends a jigsaw type interlocking design. Then place it on the platform with the jigsaw down. This allows for easy assembly and the sides sitting on the platform would have interrupted walls. That might suppress the warping enough.
I had mixed success with glue sticks. Then I tried Slurry, the support never leaves the bed. I see some minor warping between the support and the part but nothing like I was seeing before. Largest prints with ABS are 13cm x 12cm.
I may have found a solution to my warping problem.
Not sure what part is the solution, or if it is a combination of both.
I have nearly fully enclosed my printer, added a heater, and a fan, so that I can keep the temp within 1 degree.....I currently have this set at 37 deg c.
I have also added a 3mm aluminium plate to the bottom of the perforated build plate.
My picture shows what I was going to do with self adhesive heat transfer sheets, but it turned out they were not adhesive!! :-) I ended up bonding the perforated build plate to the aluminium with a very thin layer of gorilla glue, weighted down overnight.
I printed a zcode part in red ultra t which I had printed before in black ultra t, and there was absolutely no warping this time (last time all corners lifted at least 1mm each!
This was tested on the last software (haven't had time to try the new version yet).
I will have to do more testing to ensure it is not a fluke!
i'm using standard z-abs and the average size of my prints are between 140mm to 180mm without any warping or cracking , before each print i calibrate the bed and just before the print starts wipe the platform with acetone .. with one model i need to print 16 peaces to complete it , that was using the printer 24/7 for two weeks solid .. the over all model size when put together was 173cm tall
I may have found a solution to my warping problem.
Not sure what part is the solution, or if it is a combination of both.
I have nearly fully enclosed my printer, added a heater, and a fan, so that I can keep the temp within 1 degree.....I currently have this set at 37 deg c.
I have also added a 3mm aluminium plate to the bottom of the perforated build plate.
My picture shows what I was going to do with self adhesive heat transfer sheets, but it turned out they were not adhesive!! :-) I ended up bonding the perforated build plate to the aluminium with a very thin layer of gorilla glue, weighted down overnight.
I printed a zcode part in red ultra t which I had printed before in black ultra t, and there was absolutely no warping this time (last time all corners lifted at least 1mm each!
This was tested on the last software (haven't had time to try the new version yet).
I will have to do more testing to ensure it is not a fluke!
Very neat setup ssangster! Just wondering what kind of heater and controller are you using and where did you get it from?
Please write to our customer support team regarding this issue: support@zortrax.com. Please provide the serial number of the printer, hardware version and other data which can be helpful for us to investigate and solve your problem.