My second print

[quote name=dhatw]Julia,

Here is a comparison shot. Android smart phone charger vs first print vs included Zombie head. I would say my first print is slightly yellower than the zombie head.

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui=2&ik=407733a54e&view=att&th=143cf01ce4ca8613&attid=0.1&disp=safe&zw
[/quote]

I get a 404 from your link. Actually I was asking Kyle which filament he has because he says he doesn’t have delamination issues; I’m pretty sure you got the bad one :frowning:

Can you show us the underside of the “top half” of the failed part?

Actually, the photo doesn’t show that much difference in color but you can see a slight difference in person. I already broke apart the failed bearing to CSI it and scrapped it because my wife was on my case about making a mess. I have successfully printed a 20 mm cube with a 10 mm hole, 10 mm square and a 10 mm triangle in it and now I am re printing the bearing. So far so good and it has started in the middle of the build plate. The 10 mm cube printed in the middle also, which supports your theory Julia.

[quote name=Julia Truchsess][quote=dhatw]Julia,

Here is a comparison shot. Android smart phone charger vs first print vs included Zombie head. I would say my first print is slightly yellower than the zombie head.

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui=2&ik=407733a54e&view=att&th=143cf01ce4ca8613&attid=0.1&disp=safe&zw
[/quote]

I get a 404 from your link. Actually I was asking Kyle which filament he has because he says he doesn’t have delamination issues; I’m pretty sure you got the bad one :frowning:

Can you show us the underside of the “top half” of the failed part?
[/quote]

I decided to reprint the bearing after a successful 20 mm cube. About a third of the way through it I could see one edge of all the balls curling up. Just now it ripped one of the balls out and I stopped it. How do you post a picture directly to a thread? Okay, here is the link: https://www.dropbox.com/s/68amgl24g78xee8/20140126_103210_Strathmore%20Blvd.jpg So it looks like Julia was right.

Dhatw.

I wonder if it would help to tape the fan off for a print like this. On the UP I had a flap that could turn the fan air off. This helped with delamination.

You might also try a more open fill. Dense fill can exacerbate warpage.

I could try a less dense fill but i could see it was the perimeter that was warping. i just tried the gray filament but the tip was ripping up the first layer. i am out for a bit then will try scuffing the build plate, more acetone and then less fill. I am still very happy with the quality of successful prints. I am guessing that if this filament turns out to be the “bad” stuff it will work with a higher temperature once that is available. in the mean time I might try some of the filament you recommended Julia, can’t remember exactly what it was right now.

[quote name=dhatw]I could try a less dense fill but i could see it was the perimeter that was warping. i just tried the gray filament but the tip was ripping up the first layer. i am out for a bit then will try scuffing the build plate, more acetone and then less fill. I am still very happy with the quality of successful prints. I am guessing that if this filament turns out to be the “bad” stuff it will work with a higher temperature once that is available. in the mean time I might try some of the filament you recommended Julia, can’t remember exactly what it was right now.
[/quote]

Official Up/pp3dp filament works well. You can buy it from www.octave.com or from pp3dp in China.

I’ve been using Elmer’s washable school glue stick on my (scuffed) build plate - no adhesion problems now. I’ve also taped cardboard over all three open sides, which can help a lot with warpage. Build area temp gets up to 30-40C and drafts are minimized.

[quote name=Julia Truchsess][quote=dhatw]I could try a less dense fill but i could see it was the perimeter that was warping. i just tried the gray filament but the tip was ripping up the first layer. i am out for a bit then will try scuffing the build plate, more acetone and then less fill. I am still very happy with the quality of successful prints. I am guessing that if this filament turns out to be the “bad” stuff it will work with a higher temperature once that is available. in the mean time I might try some of the filament you recommended Julia, can’t remember exactly what it was right now.
[/quote]

Official Up/pp3dp filament works well. You can buy it from www.octave.com or from pp3dp in China.

I’ve been using Elmer’s washable school glue stick on my (scuffed) build plate - no adhesion problems now. I’ve also taped cardboard over all three open sides, which can help a lot with warpage. Build area temp gets up to 30-40C and drafts are minimized.
[/quote]

We Changed filament already and all new orders will be shipped modified filament (less warping, more bright colors), just batch 1 was good but not perfect as it is now.

Best Regards

[quote name=dhatw]One thing to note is the head ended up all the way to the left and front when it went home. If it had slipped it should have been further to the right when at home based on how the bearing moved.
[/quote]

There are switches that tell the head when it is in home position so slipping won’t change where it stops.

[quote name=The6uest][quote=dhatw]One thing to note is the head ended up all the way to the left and front when it went home. If it had slipped it should have been further to the right when at home based on how the bearing moved.
[/quote]

There are switches that tell the head when it is in home position so slipping won’t change where it stops.
[/quote]

Of course yes I did know that.

Okay, so I am taking all the advice that I have received from many users on this forum and applying all at once. So not a very controlled test. Thank you to all that have given their input. Here is what I am trying:

1-Bought heavy duty scouring pads and roughed up the build plate-well it kinda only removed a little bit of the sheen but anyways…

2-Removed the build plate cleaned underneath

3-replaced the build plate and cleaned with acetone

4-Applied Elmer’s washable glue

5-Covered all three sides with corogated plastic

6-Currently waiting for build plate to heat up fully

7-Crossed fingers, toes and eyes

8-Appealed for well wishes and prayers

Will report back as soon as I have any results.

One thing of note, check all your screws. I thought I had checked all but missed the Z axis lead screw nut and just discovered that all 4 were loose. One was just snug and 3 were at least a mm loose. This may have contributed to the first layer being scraped off.

Dhatw.

[quote name=dhatw]the Z axis lead screw nut and just discovered that all 4 were loose. One was just snug and 3 were at least a mm loose.

Dhatw.
[/quote]

Yikes! Where exactly are these, I want to check mine just in case.

I’m sure your print will turn out great now :slight_smile:

[quote name=Julia Truchsess][quote=Kyle]I did have some minor delam on a print today that was 3.5 x 6.5 x 1.5 thick. Very minor. I can’t see part doing that all the way across in the same spot with all those bearings.
[/quote]

Do you have the correct white Z-ABS or the yellow one? The yellow one has terrible delamination. The ABS warped, the part split, and the nozzle knocked it completely apart when it hit a part that had raised up due to warpage. If the drive had slipped halfway and printed into thin air you’d see a lot more spaghetti all over the place, and the bottom edge of the top half would be a mess, not the nice crisp edge we see in the photo.
[/quote]
It was actually with the grey.

[quote name=dhatw]Okay, so I am taking all the advice that I have received from many users on this forum and applying all at once. So not a very controlled test. Thank you to all that have given their input. Here is what I am trying:

1-Bought heavy duty scouring pads and roughed up the build plate-well it kinda only removed a little bit of the sheen but anyways…

2-Removed the build plate cleaned underneath

3-replaced the build plate and cleaned with acetone

4-Applied Elmer’s washable glue

5-Covered all three sides with corogated plastic

6-Currently waiting for build plate to heat up fully

7-Crossed fingers, toes and eyes

8-Appealed for well wishes and prayers

Will report back as soon as I have any results.

One thing of note, check all your screws. I thought I had checked all but missed the Z axis lead screw nut and just discovered that all 4 were loose. One was just snug and 3 were at least a mm loose. This may have contributed to the first layer being scraped off.

Dhatw.
[/quote]

It failed. Again the nozzle started knocking the balls all over the place. Must be the filament. Martin, any thoughts? I sliced it with the default settings, I think it uses 30 degrees for support. It fails when printing the balls though.

Julia, the screws (see pic) are here in the centre. They hold the Z axis nut down onto the Z stage. https://www.dropbox.com/s/4gyvpq3cwcx1j4t/20140126_193332_Craven%20Rd.jpg

Try printing something else :slight_smile: Maybe the balls are rotating?

Exactly! Julia has a good point! The balls may simply have too little support and get dragged around!

@martin… So all 6kg filament that come with my printer are a “not so good” batch??? …or are we talking white only?

[quote name=Andre]Exactly! Julia has a good point! The balls may simply have too little support and get dragged around!

@martin… So all 6kg filament that come with my printer are a “not so good” batch??? …or are we talking white only?
[/quote]

Sounds like a plan, however it doesn’t explain the first failed print that shifted but pretty much printed all the balls. I will try something else though. This is one of the prints that Zortrax has on their website.

The first one could have been related to the loose Z-Axis screws…?

Can’t argue that. I will have to try tomorrow though, I don’t want to leave this running over night.

I know now what happened on the initial attempt. When the print was half way up some of the balls tipped (due to the drag of the nozzle). Then the nozzle picked some of those half balls up when it was doing rapids. Then one of the hanging balls (I know…) jammed between the nozzle and the build (probably the burnt one)…The steppers lost a couple of steps until the nozzle broke free again. That also explains all the lower half balls scattered around…there are no top halfs missing!