Part Detachment from Raft

He all,

i'm an owner of a M200 from 4 days.

I've a problem and this problem happens with Z-Ultrat and Z-ABS.

The problem is attached.

I attached the STL too and print setting.

My M200 has lateral and frontal original panel.

How i can resolve this problem ?

The part is a box and the surface in the plane is full 40x100 mm.

Thank u.

It looks like heating issue, make sure that lower fan is working. You can check it using piece of filament, just stuck it inside, it wont damage blades. 

During the print the fan is everytime off, i'll check more time with a little piece of cotton near the nozzle to verify for fan wind ... but no movement there.

PS Fan cooling was in "auto" in zsuite.

I believe that the pot should be a bit colder, it should expect a cooling plate 30% after the raft, so the object printed would heat shock less

I think it's a cooling issue (the opposite), it cools too fast.

Try again with fan off and switch from solid infill to light infill.

This part has massive walls and edges, that way it shrinks and pulls off from the raft.

Printing it with less infill and no fan gives some relief for that shrinking, if it works try narrowing the settings to what you need or adjust the designs walls.

During the print the fan is everytime off, i'll check more time with a little piece of cotton near the nozzle to verify for fan wind ... but no movement there.

PS Fan cooling was in "auto" in zsuite.

It should work, you may try forcing fan to 0% and 100% to see if there any differences between two prints. 

Yesterday i tested that, before 0% and after 100% but id did not work but i repeat that i cannot hear the fan: in my last prusa when fan start i can hear very well his noise but in the m200 i cannot hear for that: it's normal or I should feel well ?

About the design, some texture like this one could help me ?

I cannot reduce the infill, i need of that :(.

Yesterday i tested that, before 0% and after 100% but id did not work but i repeat that i cannot hear the fan: in my last prusa when fan start i can hear very well his noise but in the m200 i cannot hear for that: it's normal or I should feel well ?

About the design, some texture like this one could help me ?

I cannot reduce the infill, i need of that :(.

You can also swap FAN1 and FAN2 plugs on extruder PCB to determine if its fan itself or more like PCB / Ribbon cable. 

Yesterday i tested that, before 0% and after 100% but id did not work but i repeat that i cannot hear the fan: in my last prusa when fan start i can hear very well his noise but in the m200 i cannot hear for that: it's normal or I should feel well ?

About the design, some texture like this one could help me ?

I cannot reduce the infill, i need of that :(.

You can reduce it, just click on the setting in Z-Suite...

It's about to test what your problem is, as you can read in the different replies it can be caused by several factors.

If you know the problem (maybe not only one), you can work on the settings and maybe the design.

eheh Z-Renegate, i cannot reduce because i need it :) so i need change something other to solve the problem.

Marcin,

about that test it's to verify that fan2 work fine ?

Fan 1 (the top fan) work fine, i can see it work during print.

eheh Z-Renegate, i cannot reduce because i need it :) so i need change something other to solve the problem.

Marcin,

about that test it's to verify that fan2 work fine ?

Fan 1 (the top fan) work fine, i can see it work during print.

If your FAN1 works fine, it means that FAN1 slot and FAN1 itself are fine, so you can plug your FAN2 into FAN1 slot, if it will work, it means that PCB or Ribbon cable are faulty, if it wont, it means that FAN2 itself is dead. 

OK, i'll check for that.

The printer has 6 day of life.

Marcin, i try to invert fan connection (see attached photo) and i confirm the both fan work fine. The lower fan is very very silent.

About the print. I tested to print the body at 180° (see the shot) and apparently the work was fine because there was not detach of the part from the part.

But after removed the support ... OMG.

Now i add some pattern in the plane and i'll try to print again with the attached setting.

Here the new test with the setting in last post and the surface edited.

The result is acceptable (about the deformation) but not perfect but the piece do not detach from the raft, this is good.

I'll try to reduce another step in infill.

ABS tends to warp fast and with the part you are making I am inclined to agree with Z-Renegade on this one. I would add that you should get your self a set of side panels to help with keeping the build area a consistent temp. The fan is not necessarily needed for every print and most jobs with larger foot prints it is best to turn it off, smaller foot print parts or ones that end in a fine point should have the fan on higher then normal. People jump to the conclusion that there must be a defective part if the machine is printing bad parts but that is most often not the case. In any event you did the right thing and asked questions.

I do not know what people you are referring.
I simply opened the discussion for advice.
 
In any case, whereas the M200 is a "desktop" completely "closed" software should be telling me what I can and what I can not print. SIMPLE.
Otherwise I could safely continue to be stupid with a RepRap Prusa.

Try this: To make the part stick better to the raft add a "sacrificial" rim around the box about 1mm thick and 20-30mm wide. Then you get more support material holding the box down to the raft. You can even make a stiffening "wall" on the circumference of the sacrificial rim to stiffen it. After printing, just cut away the rim. I have done this many times, it does not take away warp, but reduces it a lot.

Best of luck!

He motordude, interesting solution.

Can u add an image about that because i'm sure to understand correctly. Thank u.

He motordude, interesting solution.

Can u add an image about that because i'm sure to understand correctly. Thank u.

Hello! The yellow part is your model. To your model you attach a sacrificial rim; the orange part. You may stiffen the rim with ribs if you like, but shouldn't be necessary. If you use ribs, make sure to leave enough space between the ribs and the model wall so you can get a knife in between. The rim must be rather thin near the model walls, 1mm is enough. If it is thicker (where you cut), you will see the internal mesh when you remove the rim. The blue part is the autogenerated raft from Z-suite and the grey is the perf. board.

Second pic. is with ribs, made fast, don't worry about the dimensions and the shape. You make those as best suited for your model!

Hope it works for you!

Ok understood, thank u ! I'll try for that solution :)