Printing warp-free w/ Zortrax M200

Hey guys,

just thought I'd share my experiences for the noobs.

Problem:

large flat objects would constantly warp.

Zortrax_anti_warp_1_zps7e72d556.jpg

Solutions:

 

  • Turn off the cooling fan. (large prints don't need it)
  • Ensure your print-bed is flat and true. (adjust / remove and clean under it appropriately)
  • Enclose the sides of the printer. (to retain some of the heat)
  • Enclose the top of the printer. (because heat rises)
  • Sand the print-bed. (lightly, with ~300 grit on a flat block... to slightly rough-up the print-bed surface)
  • Clean the print bed. (lightly, with a paper towel that is damp with acetone, *wear gloves)
  • Apply a fine layer of ABS slurry near the edges of the print-bed raft. (... acetone with a bit of ABS plastic mixed, doesn't take much, *wear gloves)
  • Let the whole build-volume heat-up before starting a print. (I turn on my machine 30 min before loading a model file)
  • Let the part cool-down SLOWLY after printing. (I don't touch the machine for the first 40 min after printing, then turn OFF and wait another 40 min)

zortraz_anti_warp_2_zps54f0f590.jpg

zortrax_anti_warp_3_zpsf0d3ff96.jpg

zortrax_anti_warp_4_zps3242b85f.jpg

nearly warp-free printing is possible when all of the above precautions are taken.

Hope all this helps.

-Josh!

Nice guide.

But I think that a good Leveling and correct distance from the platformis enough.

At the start I had a bowed platform then I made some modifications to get it perfectly leveled(just add some Buildtak to the corners cut in small squares) And also place some lines between the space of platform mouning screws.

Problem Solved, no need of sanding etc etc. Just to keep the bed clean always of small debris of plastic underneath.

Ah I forgot to say no enclosing is needed also, Fan at 20 % always.

Here are some pictures of some quite large parts, with no warping and the raft sticks so well to the platform that I have sometimes problems but with the model getting separated from the raft, but raft always stays stick to the bed no matter what I make.

DSCN2584_zpsdac0cad8.jpg

DSCN2592_zps5e8a3bbb.jpg

DSCN2590_zps387e22c4.jpg

Your part may be stuck to the bed, but it looks like its about to rip the perf board off the print bed! :o Full enclosed has been the only working solution for myself, but my printer is also in a room that is slightly colder then standard room temp. 

Bed will always going to warp like this, and I prefer that to be messing with incomplete jobs and wasting material because the part lift from the bed.

I get so much adhesion that in fact sometimes the part lift from the raft,(wich is really anoying)

[URL=http://s1242.photobucket.com/user/mmaxds/media/DSCN2687_zps2a142b3f.jpg.html]DSCN2687_zps2a142b3f.jpg[/URL]

I'm working on making a Stainlees Steel or aluminum frame of about 2.3 mm thick to be put above the perfboard edge (where the screws go attched)so that is stays in place every time, with no curving.

Also those pictures were take once the bed was cool, in fact when it cools the whole part and bed makes cracking sounds.

You can se in the first photographs from josh that his perfboard is also a little bit curved.

The simplest way is a glue. Always works properly. :)

The simplest way is a glue. Always works properly. :)

How do you put glue between a part and the raft? 

enclosing the printer is one (of many) great ways to prevent warping.

As Ahntlia just pointed out:

Getting the raft to "stick" is only half the battle... preventing the part from warping is the other half.

Also: holy-moly that is one warped print-bed.

If you close all the printer you will have problem with jammed filament on extruder.

This is very good solution for warping issue: http://forum.zortrax.com/index.php?/topic/483-tips-tricks-warping-issue-solution/#entry12309

BR,

Rafal

bad link

If you close all the printer you will have problem with jammed filament on extruder.

This is very good solution for warping issue: http://forum.zortrax.com/index.php?/topic/483-tips-tricks-warping-issue-solution/#entry12309

BR,

Rafal

The solution you post is for preventing the raft from lifting,

but what about preventing the part from lifting?

also:

I'd like to hear from other users on the filament jamming, as with my printer closed off I have not yet had that problem.

The solution you post is for preventing the raft from lifting,

but what about preventing the part from lifting?

also:

I'd like to hear from other users on the filament jamming, as with my printer closed off I have not yet had that problem.

Josh,

I did have my printer enclosed for "one day" and every long print I had jammed on me, maybe my fan wasn't working properly. (temperature inside 75 C) The moment I took the cover off it stopped jamming. Unfortunately a couple weeks. later it had other issues, which are now being worked out. But for the most part I do not have warping issues anymore as long as I have a level bed, and most all of my prints are large prints.

I have had the printer for just over 1 month and I have printed out well over 100 self designed objects half of which are at least 100mm.

also:

I'd like to hear from other users on the filament jamming, as with my printer closed off I have not yet had that problem.

I haven't had any jams with it being enclosed yet... My bigger prints would warp so bad they would crack and split in the middle of the prints. My machine is also probably in a colder area then most being in the basement. I think ambient temp vs ideal printing temp plays a factor especially when not enclosed. 

When I moved my makerbot and Zortrax to the colder room, I was able to adjust the temps in the makerbot to eliminate warping. Maybe need an adjustment in zsuite for ambient temp, or even sweeter would be a sensor built into the machine to compensate. There you go Zortrax team. A freebie! 

Thanks guys.

Sides alone definitely help,

but for one of my larger prints I needed to enclose the whole thing.

There doesn't seem to be any easy way to run duct to and from the fan in order to keep the print-head-block cool while it's fully enclosed.

Hi All,

I have not did a single print yet (as my printer is about to arrive tomorrow :)) so I'm not an expert, but I'm reading you all since begin, and want to talk about my idea. There are my thoughts:

Enclosing printer will help with wrapping, but fully enclosed may cause a filament extruding problem, or in extreme scenario - overheat the printer/electronics etc. 

somepunk22 had his printer in colder than normal room area, and wrapping was even worse, so looks like +-10 degrees celcius is making a significant change in wrapping issue.

My idea is to enclose printer just above PSU vents, with a 20-40cm extra more space from each side (even more on top), with for example transparent laser cut plexi 3mm, and having adjustable vents, and at least two termometers to monitor temp. Someone give a hint, that he is turning printer 30mins before print, and wait for good heat up, so going into this direction, and having printer enclosed in quite huge volume of air, I can put an hair dryer for X minutes to good heat up "environment". Another advantage is that whole chassis, rails etc will have equal temperature, and inertia of temperature will be much bigger, cooling product after print will be much slower.

And the most important is I think to keep temp about 35 degrees (as the spec allows), or a bit more if Zortrax team says that XX will be also ok as long as PSU is not inside the chamber. 

What do you think? Is it worth doing? I will share drawings:)

Regards

Slawek 

I also newbie without printer. I think slaweks82 idea is much better than whole printer in chamber. 
What about add heat sinks onto all of the steppers plus some reflective insulation on bottom of printer chamber (under perforated print platform). It should protect electronics. 
I don't have printer so i don't know there is space for this modifications.
Based on: http://hackaday.com/2014/04/28/replicator-1-receives-a-pid-controlled-heated-chamber/

@galazkatomek

The problem is not with stepper, electronics etc. the problem is with filament which start to softening at place where should not, due of we didn’t keep in mind at design stage that customers can put IKEA bag on the Zortrax or closing it in the fully sealed box :slight_smile:

Enclosure is good idea but enclosing whole printer without leaving some space for fresh air is just asking for troubles and overall give melted details, just is enough to enclose front, left & right 35-50C inside is enough.

Best Regards

What about double sided tape, anyone try this?

Im going to try it soon and report back on findings.

Won't work.. You can't cover up silver squares on bed. It uses these electrically to determine zero. DO NOT put anything on the bed that will insulate it from contacting the nozzle.

I actually tried it and did not have any problems as far as what you mentioned, but it did not work in regards to the warping issue.

I did the whole procedure outlined by Rafal and so far so good.

I'm confused.. You covered the top of bed with tape? How did it not destroy the build plate when calibrating?