Pilou, sometimes you also have to loosen the screws of the pegs a little bit so that the platform easily slides over them. My platform would not go onto the pegs without loosening the screws a little. After it’s down you can carefully tighten them up again since the little tubes have repositioned by then.
I had the same lifting raft problem quite a lot, too. To fix that :
Adjust the 3 screws under the bed to it’s perfectly flat (“the paper sheet trick” to move the head at the 3 corners of the bed, you should tune the bed screws to keep a sheet of paper thickness between bed and head everywhere).
[quote name=VipeR]Ugh… It looks like Zortrax Team must change something in software because printer make very ugly bottom (especially if it’s rounded parts)
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This is very difficult for any FDM machine… Without support my UP was not any better with rounded bottoms.
For this is option with setting support angle, this part contain tricky angle, increase support to give stable base for it then everything should be ok for sphares it sometimes need up to 60degrees .
About “dodecahedron” print - there is big warning message when support is disabled exactly happen what this message said - with complicated parts minimal 10degrees is required and 20-30 is perfect, also additional air blowing is required (it will come with 0.0.3 firmware).
Thank you for your help, martin. I will add more support, then, for the mustache egg holder. There was 30 degrees support. I should put 60 ? What do you think ?
For dodecahedron, don’t worry, I know I should put support, but it was like a challenge. I wanted to see how it would look like without any support. (I’m lousy at support removal…)
PS : I am using 0.0.3 firmware already. (Unofficial)
My suggestion is scuff the bed lightly with very fine sandpaper or scouring pad, and use washable glue stick before each print, but as you know, this is not the official Zortrax recommendation and I speak only for myself. I just don’t see how anything can stick very well to that smooth shiny surface, and since doing it myself and using glue stick I have not had one print lift from the bed.
Another possible trick : I am not sure of this point, but I have the feeling that the “autocalibration feature” is done by checking electrical contact between the noze and the conductive part of the bed.
However, for the contact to be made, you need to ensure that your noze is perfectly conductive, I.E. : clean. If not, the printer will have to “press” slightly more on the bed to have the electric contact esablished, and that results in a false calibration for the printer, and then at some point the noze slightly “rubs” on the underlaying layer, unsticking it.
Before each print, I clean the noze with the scrouge. It must be shiny.
Not sure if my assumptions are making any sense though :rolleyes:
Pilou, there’s no airflow in your home ? The printer is sensitive to temperature changes.
I proceed like this: printer closed room and away from windows ; closed 3 sides of the machine ; a little bit of acetone between each print to clean the tray. Never had this problem yet.