I tried printing the attached model, and 3 times in a row (3 diff prints) the front left side would disconnect from the plate and lift up about 3-4mm ruining the whole thing.
What is going on?
Thanks,
I just thought it was weird since it is so new, but I guess it may need some priming.
- side covers help
- fixing your bended platform (saw it at another thread) will help as this builds tension
- applying abs juice on platform periodically helps
- you could also use thick abs juice on the corners of the raft after the part has begun printing, to help it stick
Good ideas! Thanks.
I did also start printing things with little 5x5x5mm cubes (or a bit larger at times) all around the object to increase the area of the bottom support :)
This seems to help decently at a cost of a bit more filament used (way less than failing to print 3 times).
Also, the platform “breaks in” over time. The more ABS you have stuck in the holes from print to print the better the adhesion gets… I use ABS juice and side covers. Sometimes I even add some juice while the raft goes down
(at spots where the first layer seems to thick or is not pressed into the holes well…)
Idk, I have been using glue sticks on my platform for the longest time (since the beginning or close to when it was suggested as a fix) because if I didn't print in center of the machine, it would lift up.
And the glues ticks work beautifully! No messy sticky slurry. Easy clean up and easy application.
I use a makeraser to apply the slurry…no mess either
Idk, I have been using glue sticks on my platform for the longest time (since the beginning or close to when it was suggested as a fix) because if I didn't print in center of the machine, it would lift up.
And the glues ticks work beautifully! No messy sticky slurry. Easy clean up and easy application.
Can you please elaborate on this? :)
http://forum.zortrax.com/index.php?/topic/483-tips-tricks-warping-issue-solution/?hl=glue#entry12325
Here is a discussion about it.
I use Elmers all purpose glue stick and rub on the plate. Then the raft doesn't usually lift at all. I don't clean it after every use, sometimes I just use water to wipe the board and it moves the existing glue around.
When I want to clean the plate I use a soaked paper towel and a scraper. Works great.
I just used the glue stick for the first time and it is a life saver my printer has been running day and night for two months now to keep up with demand and there is nothing worse than starting up a 5 day print on the weekend only to come back on Monday and two days of printing destroyed by lifting.
I just used the glue stick for the first time and it is a life saver my printer has been running day and night for two months now to keep up with demand and there is nothing worse than starting up a 5 day print on the weekend only to come back on Monday and two days of printing destroyed by lifting.
Mind if I ask what you're making?
I've found the ABS slurry to be bulletproof, raft is stuck to the bed like glue.
All new perfboards do need some action before they start to stick well, that's just normal.
A nice level bed certainly doesn't hurt either.
I've used ABS slurry and glue sticks. While the ABS slurry works well, the cleanup is a pain. After reading a post here on glue sticks I decided to give it a try and have never looked back! Super easy cleanup (a damp paper towel after each print), simple application and awesome adhesion. I haven't had a single print lift using glue sticks on either of my M200s no matter the object.
Slurry is pain to clean up? If you want a beautiful build plate perhaps, but if you just want function it’s just as easy to clean. The ONLY thing I’ve done to clean the plate in the 4 months I’ve had mine is a quick scrape with the scraper after each print. 5 seconds and done. And I only apply abs every 5-10 prints (unless I know it’ll be a problem print). With this method I have only had one print fail from warping and that was because I forgot to turn up the temp in the print room.
So yeah, if you want a sparkly clean plate each time this won’t work for you, but if you just care about print quality I’d highly recommend it.
I've been using and recommending Elmer's glue stick for a while, but decided to try some ultra-T in acetone the other day. I can say that the ABS slurry definitely holds stronger for me. It was significantly harder to remove the part from the bed, and found the raft tearing, not lifting when I levered it with the spatula.
I only wipe the slurry on with a paper towel, so it is a very thin residue. Doesn't seem messy at all, but even if it was I would keep doing it for the extra holding strength.
my 2c
I've used ABS slurry and glue sticks. While the ABS slurry works well, the cleanup is a pain. After reading a post here on glue sticks I decided to give it a try and have never looked back! Super easy cleanup (a damp paper towel after each print), simple application and awesome adhesion. I haven't had a single print lift using glue sticks on either of my M200s no matter the object.
Can you point me toward a file with the largest print you've successfully printed in ABS?
I had major problems with the block and head in this Toyota engine print, for example:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:644933
despite using ABS glue and Clark's enclosure. Those parts are large enough that they needed to be placed diagonally across the perf board and I used pretty heavy infill so that some of the holes could be tapped.
Mike
Can you point me toward a file with the largest print you've successfully printed in ABS?
I had major problems with the block and head in this Toyota engine print, for example:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:644933
despite using ABS glue and Clark's enclosure. Those parts are large enough that they needed to be placed diagonally across the perf board and I used pretty heavy infill so that some of the holes could be tapped.
Mike
Largest would be the Zuzanna lamp. It fills the build plate but there's not a lot of mass to it. https://cults3d.com/en/home/zuzanna-lamp
The pieces with the most mass were a series of low poly Rams we designed and printed in multiple pieces. Printed with low in-fill. Each part maxed out the build plate in one way or another. The base was split in two parts with each filling up most of the plate but were only about 63mm high. The body was split into as well, taking up about half the build plate and most of the height. I've also printed a submarine I designed that was broken into many pieces. Each piece filled the plate as well.
That engine is essentially like printing a brick. I would try low in-fill instead of full. I only use low in-fill unless it a small technical part, ie: door guides, hinges, etc. Either way, if you have doors and you're using ABS slurry, you shouldn't have an issue. Like Lab Rat and WilsonJ said, it's stronger than the glue stick and it always worked for me. I just didn't like the cleanup, plus, it was harder to remove the raft from the plate depending on the part. Maybe my mixture was too thick? I keep some on hand just in case but I haven't found that case yet.
I've been using and recommending Elmer's glue stick for a while, but decided to try some ultra-T in acetone the other day. I can say that the ABS slurry definitely holds stronger for me. It was significantly harder to remove the part from the bed, and found the raft tearing, not lifting when I levered it with the spatula.
I only wipe the slurry on with a paper towel, so it is a very thin residue. Doesn't seem messy at all, but even if it was I would keep doing it for the extra holding strength.
my 2c
That's where I'm at, you can hardly even see the stuff when you wipe it on.
Edges of my raft are absolutely stuck down.
Lol, I guess I’m an extremist. I make the slurry more of a sludge, and I squirt some on the plate from an old siracha bottle then spread with a small squeegee meant for applying phone screen covers.