Hi Guys
My nozzle got stuck and I ruined the whole block trying to fix that, can you sell me a new one?
Thanks
Hi Guys
My nozzle got stuck and I ruined the whole block trying to fix that, can you sell me a new one?
Thanks
I would send them an email.. support@zortrax.com
Looks like nozzles and print heads are now available in the store - both International and European.
Mike
WOW!!! I hope I don't mess mine up..
I had mine clog when I tried to feed a new filament when the other was done but the end of the old got caught in nozzle.
I took off block and nozzle and soaked and cleaned the nozzle in acetone for about an hour. It didn’t get the remaining out if the block shaft but it did loosen it enough for it to melt and install new filament when I put back together.
I thought I was screwed and would have to drill it but acetone worked good for me. Not sure u have same issue but figured if post just the same.
Good luck
Edit- this post should be disregarded because there is a rubber piece between the heatblock and shaft and mine got eaten by the acetone and is causing problems now. Its oozing from between there and everything is getting so hot and I believe even shorting out so do not try what I have done. I need to get a new heat block, shaft and nozzle.
I will be taking apart and messing with today but hopefully we can get parts soon.
Thanks and sorry. Live and Learn
That's weird, I have had mine all apart and never noticed any rubber piece. I did have an oozing/leaking problem but solved it by using teflon tape and by replacing the crappy flathead countersunk philips screws with hex socket screws.
Same here… I have a first gen Z and we have a second gen Z at work… Both don’t have any rubber in the hot end. The one at work started oozing once and as Julia said we just cleaned it up and assembled it back together with some Teflon tape. Besides maybe stripping threads there is really not much that can break on this hot end.
Can you please post a pic of your rubber piece in the hot end?
I can't imagine having any rubber in there. The block heats up to 260 degrees Celsius.. I figure any rubber part would just melt.
Nope there was a little piece of rupper around the shaft. I ended up fixing it by using some gasket sealer and was working good. I screwed up though. I think when I put the ground on the hot end I tightened the screw down either too much or too little cause the ground popped off during a print and everything got real hot. I tried to reinstall and the damn screw was stripped in the block.
If its not one thing,......
So I am glad they have the hotends for sale. A but pricey though. 75 for the hot end but 20 bucks for shipping. Wouldnt be bad I guess if it wouldnt take weeks to get here. :(
Sorry the rubber piece is long gone. It was like a sleeve that goes around the thick shaft under the where it screws into the block. without that rubber piece, you could actually wiggle the shaft in the block. I didn't notice it until I had it in the acetone.
Id say it looked like womans clear bras strap but solid circle and couldnt say the length of it cause was eaten a bit by the acetone.
Here's what happened--
Problem was my nozzle would not comeout of the block, hot or cold so thats why I had to take the whole piece off and soak in acetone. When I pulled up from the acetone I was able to pull the nozzle off and in doing so the shaft came out of the block. I went to push into the block and noticed the clear rubber piece was out of shape because of the acetone. I pulled off and put back together. I put the ground under the shaft plate.
Worked great for a few prints then I noticed the oozing and thought maybe the ground wire was suppose to be on screw instead of under plate. Took off and soaked again. I even thought it was the rubber piece but I forgot to use teflon tape when I put the nozzle on. Duh!
Put it back together and this time the ground wie on the screw instead of under plate and then the ground popped off during print and the screw shaft is stripped. So I am thinking under the plate was where it shouldve been.
Sorry I didnt take a pic, Im not a big pic kinda guy. lol
But Thank you to the Zortrax team for making the hotends available for idiots like me. :)
Weird…so there seems to be different versions of the hot end. I would ask Zortrax nicely if they could not help you out under warranty… Since there is no real manual about the do’s and dont’s I don’t think it’s your fault that it’s broken. It’s very logical to soak the whole thing in Acetone if it does not come apart. I would have done exactly the same. I think there should be a warning somewhere if this can destroy the seal (or is this written somewhere?).
The cable goes under the screw head and not under the plate. If I’m not mistaken the cable is only used for the initial calibration when the nozzle hits the perf board. So it should not have any influence on your temp during a print (but I may be wrong).
So… Here is how I would fix your hot end and save 95 bucks. Get yourself a drill and tap and recut the thread for the next size up. Install the tube with just enough Teflon tape around it so that it goes in tightly. Done.
You might even get away with a longer screw…maybe there is some thread left further down.
Wrapping a wire under countersunk screw head is bad practice (it tends to push the wire out), and in the Z the screw is so short it reduces the amount of threads into the block to almost none. Maybe only the top of your hole is stripped and a longer screw would grab. I think they are 3mm. I added a solder lug to mine so the wire connects to the lug and then the lug goes under a proper socket screw.
You are right. It tightens without the wire under it but with it it turns so the thread is just stripped at the one point. I am going to find a slightly longer screw (which will be a pain given the size of it lol).
I already ordered the new hot end so I'll just have two which I guess isnt a bad thing just in case.
I am thinking the warrantly would only apply to defects and being if I never took it apart it would've been fine. (not print, but not stripped haha) I guess it could all be blamed on the defective first white filament that was sent out because it all started when the end of the roll got stuck in the shaft and wouldnt release without dissolving in acetone. (sigh)
Funny thing is i haven't printed much with it because I lay in wait for the PC (polycarbonate) udate which will be a while.
Finding a screw won't be a problem if you live the US. Ace Hardware has all the oddball screws. If not Boltdepot has a ton of metric stuff. Here is a link to the page you will need. If it is 3mm..... http://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_socket_flat_head_Stainless_steel_18-8_3mm_x_0.5mm.aspx
So I am glad they have the hotends for sale. A but pricey though. 75 for the hot end but 20 bucks for shipping. Wouldnt be bad I guess if it wouldnt take weeks to get here. :(
I'm surprised that you think it would take weeks to get to you. I just ordered a spare hot end and nozzel to have on hand and the shipping was really fast. I had it within 3-4 days of ordering it. I ordered from the international store and it was shipped to the US.
Same here.... I have a first gen Z and we have a second gen Z at work...
Ok - total noobie question here: There are two generations of the M200?
How do we know which generation our printer is, and what's the difference?
Thanks!
It's normal for new products produced in small batches by small, new companies to go through many minor unannounced revisions and tweaks, so I don't think it's really a question of "Gen 1 vs Gen 2" at this point. The only major change I'm aware of was the change of the Z-axis ball screw to an acme lead screw and nut design. This was done to improve reliability, cost, and availability; I'm not sure how many ball-screw units were produced before the change.
With gen 1 and 2 I meant the hardware version… Mine says 1 when you pull it up in the printer menu and the one at work says 2.
Finding a screw won't be a problem if you live the US. Ace Hardware has all the oddball screws. If not Boltdepot has a ton of metric stuff. Here is a link to the page you will need. If it is 3mm..... http://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_socket_flat_head_Stainless_steel_18-8_3mm_x_0.5mm.aspx
McMaster-Carr in the US also has a huge selection of fasteners in Imperial and metric formats and typically ships same day.
www.mcmaster.com
Mike
Got a longer screw and some washers at Ace. assembled perfectly.
I just can't remember if the feeder assembly always got hot during a print or if that is something new. Do other printers get hot during a print? cause it is printing nice but it seems the fine inlay is melting.
IMG_4162.JPG IMG_4159.jpg IMG_4164.jpg IMG_4165.jpg IMG_4167.JPG IMG_4171.JPG IMG_4172.JPG IMG_4174.jpg Here is my test print
I'm going to switch colors. just to make sure it is not the yellow. Yellow made me some good blocks IMG_4137.jpg
But the curves since I did the blocks are eh.
Maybe its just my imagination. When the black wire was off it was too hot to touch, now its hot but not burning hot like before. lol
I checked the fan and at 100% it isnt working when its printing. The top fan is working but the filament fan is not. The wires are all intact so I am guessing the fan went out for some reason.
Are these fans same size as computer fans or are they different?
Is the top fan running?