I am looking to add threaded heat set inserts to a 10mm think section of a box/container. I want to minimize filament use while assuring a strong bond to the threaded heat set insert. Is there a way to tell the M200 software to print part of a part using denser infill than the rest? Reference - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUEFhiFB6Zs
Not really.. If you print a hole with threads it does put more filament in that are because of the angles. Then maybe use a threaded insert with key. (Keysert) Or something similar.
I've used threaded inserts quite a bit, and there is no need to do anything special in the print settings. If you size the hole properly, there's plenty of plastic in the perimeters and you don't need extra infill (at least I haven't). Note that the holes are not supposed to be strictly cylindrical - they're supposed to have two different diameters and a taper as shown in the attached screen shot. The trickiest part is getting the darned things plumb and square without a press, it's not trivial.
Thank you, very helpful, I did not know about the hole design, would you mind posting the link to the image you posted?
I have been looking into the alignment issue as well and found one DIY and one pro solution.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iWxlsjHHL4E
and
http://www.stampritemachine.com/hand_operated_heat_staking_machine.htm(Wondering if I can find an inexpensive version or maybe I will just add a heating element to an inexpensive hand press.)
Thanks for the video, that's awesome. I would have thought that the chuck etc would suck all the heat out but it seems to work!
Here's the McMaster page for the inserts: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/3303/=wg5rhh
Very interesting, but seems very time consuming vs nut pockets. That is my go to for adding metal threads.
Yeah, I stumbled on that video too. Like Julia I woulda figured that the massive heat sink that is the chuck would have taken all the heat (it undoubtedly did slow the process down), but it looks like it worked pretty well. If that's the method you're going to use, I'd take it a bit farther and wrap the bolt with some nichrome wire hooked up to a power source turning it into an all-in-one tool. It'd probably heat up quicker and be a lot easier than using a soldering iron.
Edit: It'd probably also do well to wrap some sort of thermal insulator (kapton tape?) around the top to keep the heat from going straight to the chuck
I think I found a low cost solution:
Add a soldering iron to this:
And buy the "Insert Tip for Soldering Iron, Installation Tip" from here:
wrap the bolt with some nichrome wire hooked up to a power source
Or clamp it into a 3D printer heater block :)
Or hey - use the M200 as a heat staking press by using the manual Z-axis jog control!
I think I found a low cost solution:
Add a soldering iron to this:
And buy the "Insert Tip for Soldering Iron, Installation Tip" from here:
I could definitely see this working. The issue with cheap soldering irons is that they produce a set amount of heat - if you use it too much it cools down, too little and it can dangerously overheat. If you wanted to do this right I'd advise either getting a high quality weller temp controlled iron (~$150), or,for a budget option, one of these and splicing the relay in to the soldering iron power cable. http://www.amazon.com/Sestos-Digital-Temperature-Controller-Sensor/dp/B00HVA23CK/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1427221167&sr=8-8&keywords=pid+temperature+controller
Or clamp it into a 3D printer heater block :)
Or hey - use the M200 as a heat staking press by using the manual Z-axis jog control!
Finally, a use for my Zeepro Zim.
Finally, a use for my Zeepro Zim.
I'm guessing that this is at least partially tongue-in-cheek since you just dislike that thing. If you're actually considering it, personally I would be really concerned about overtaxing the stepper.
Really?? With the leverage of the Z-Axis screw?!? I don't think so - the stepper won't feel a thing as a hot insert goes into plastic, there's very little force involved, and I've seen people bend rods and dig holes in build platforms with Z drives.
Really?? With the leverage of the Z-Axis screw?!? I don't think so - the stepper won't feel a thing as a hot insert goes into plastic, there's very little force involved, and I've seen people bend rods and dig holes in build platforms with Z drives.
Jeeze, these things are stronger than I woulda thought. :o In that case a printer really could be an ideal heat press - temp control and all already included.
I guess I really do worry too much about getting the longest life possible from my printer. :D
Actually, Z-axis pinch hazard is as serious a concern in safety testing as nozzle heat, if not more so. You could seriously mangle a finger. X and Y not so much, but that Z screw drive can generate a lot of force.
I could definitely see this working. The issue with cheap soldering irons is that they produce a set amount of heat - if you use it too much it cools down, too little and it can dangerously overheat. If you wanted to do this right I'd advise either getting a high quality weller temp controlled iron (~$150), or,for a budget option, one of these and splicing the relay in to the soldering iron power cable. http://www.amazon.com/Sestos-Digital-Temperature-Controller-Sensor/dp/B00HVA23CK/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1427221167&sr=8-8&keywords=pid+temperature+controller
Great addition, thank you.
Interesting Article : Testing the Advantages of Using Brass Inserts in 3D Printed Parts
- "Faster to install than hand-tapping a hole
- Easier to install than hand-tapping"
Lol, NOT! Unless by "hand-tapping" he means using a manual tap wrench. Me, I just put a tap in a variable-speed cordless drill and go slow. I like threaded inserts when I need the ability to withstand repeated assembly/disassembly cycles, but faster and easier than zipping in some threads with a tap, they aren't.
Finally, a use for my Zeepro Zim.
LOL
- "Faster to install than hand-tapping a hole
- Easier to install than hand-tapping"
Lol, NOT! Unless by "hand-tapping" he means using a manual tap wrench. Me, I just put a tap in a variable-speed cordless drill and go slow. I like threaded inserts when I need the ability to withstand repeated assembly/disassembly cycles, but faster and easier than zipping in some threads with a tap, they aren't.
Do you hand taps, gun taps, form taps, or something else? Gun taps work great on through holes since they push the chips out the bottom.
Mike