Yes, all of them, multiple attempts, with the exception of messing with the cables while at 98%. I'm not comfortable doing that and I doubt it'd be good for my health or warranty. :) I've talked with Michael at Octave and they're investigating as they are able to replicate the same behavior at their office/shop. He's shipping me a V1 hotend to test.
Also, just made another attempt. 28:23 minutes from 98% to initializing print.
Octave has a V1 hotend going out to me. Those are great people. I'm wondering. Why did they change to a V2? Were there issues with it? It seems that all that have it are working fine that I've read sofar.
Octave has a V1 hotend going out to me. Those are great people. I'm wondering. Why did they change to a V2? Were there issues with it? It seems that all that have it are working fine that I've read sofar.
The V1 is all-metal. It works fine for ABS and UltraT, but the V2 feed tube, with its insulating plastic insert to keep the filament cool before it gets to the nozzle, is necessary for other materials. Why they changed the block design and/or material and/or finish, I don't know.
I have a spare V2. didn't I read that somehow people were using the V2 feed tube with the V1?
I have a spare V2. didn't I read that somehow people were using the V2 feed tube with the V1?
I thought I 'splained it in my post above: http://forum.zortrax.com/index.php?/topic/1681-v2-hotend-trouble-heating/page-5#entry22910
The feed tube simply bolts into the block with two M3 machine screws. You can unbolt the tube from a V2 block and install it into a V1 block if you have a V1 block. My first "V2" hot end purchased from Zortrax actually came with a V1 block, and that's the one I've been using. I have a V2 with the new curved block sitting around but I haven't installed it yet in my other Zortrax.
It's still possible though that your heater or thermocouple is defective - hard to say. Some folks have had no problems with the curved block, so it's not necessarily a design flaw. I don't know if Octave is sending you all new parts or just the block/tube/nozzle assembly. Changing the heater & thermocouple is a bit of a pain because you have to unbolt the heat sink plate to feed the wiring :(
You did. Oops.
In this case we strongly suggest cleaning the Hotend: http://support.zortrax.com/hotend-cleaning/
Thanks Chris. I performed that task yesterday with no change in performance that I could perceive. I used a timer on all phases and the best time I could obtain for extruder heatup from the 98% mark was 21 minutes and 19 seconds. Of the other two tests I performed so far, one print never started and was aborted after 1+hours and the second began after 28+minutes.
Thanks Chris. I performed that task yesterday with no change in performance that I could perceive. I used a timer on all phases and the best time I could obtain for extruder heatup from the 98% mark was 21 minutes and 19 seconds. Of the other two tests I performed so far, one print never started and was aborted after 1+hours and the second began after 28+minutes.
We just uploaded this manual, it's brand new. Did you try everything what's in it?
Yes. It was e-mailed to me to try. I already had the brushes.
Did you write to our support regarding this case? support@zortrax.com
I have been working with Michael at Octave, (where I purchased my printer) regarding this and he is working with support.
You can also contact us directly at the address mentioned above.
Will do Chris. Thanks again.
I just got a V1 in from Octave due to the heating issues I've been experiencing. I used the V2 insert with the V1 and replaced the V2. I performed a "test heat" and I'm so used to it taking FOREVER I had turned around and was tinkering with something, probably about 2 minutes, glanced back around and it was DONE! I couldn't believe it. (Cheers to Julia & Michael @ Octave). So I loaded filament, selected a model and was printing within 3 minutes. Really unbelievable first two weeks with the M200. I'm one happy camper.
Glad it’s working now. 
I think that your V2 block must have had slightly too large diameters in the holes for the heater cartridge and sensor.
It seems that even slight differences in diameter might make a significant difference in regards to the “contact area vs air insulation” ratio. With bigger holes the heater gets less heat into the block and also the sensor is insulated more…both bad!
How was the fit in the V1 vs. V2? Did you notice a tighter fit / less sloppiness?
I didn't really pay attention to the fit. It didn't seem sloppy without being apparent, but that could have been the issue. I can say that I used 3 different V2 blocks all with the same result. Just glad this little adventure is over. I can build my prototypes now. Whew....
Hi Nick,
Did you install the new hot end in its entirety - block, nozzle, tube, heater, sensor? Or did you keep your old heater and sensor? The only time I had a heater unable to finish heating, it turned out to be a worn-out heater and replacement solved it.
It's possible to change over to the v2 tube (and block if desired) while keeping your old sensor and heater, and in fact it's a lot easier because you don't have to pull the wires through the printer carriage.
julia
Yes I'm having the same problem, it took over 25 minutes to heat both the plate and the hot end. This a new printer 1 day old. I don't think is acceptable, OK for a $300 printer. I want this to work for me I love the first print. Got to fix some of this problems.
It took me about 2 minutes to swap the V2 tube to the V1 block and simply installed. Two screws after you remove the nozzle. I didn't use the heater or sensor that came with the new V1 block. Now I have a spare. I have already ran two prints and they started up in a little over 2 minutes after selecting them. It worked perfectly for me.