Hi All,
Just printed an object with a new roll of grey ultrat.
Full infill
0.14
80% fan
20deg support.
side enclosures on.
Bed calibrated before print to +-0.1
As you can see from the picture.....very much warped!
I can honestly say that I don't think I have had one decent print from this machine yet. :(
I would check the design.
I have mass printed 50 of 3 different objects (150) and each one came out within. .002 of each other using Black Ultrat.
Not saying its not happening with the material, only that I have not been unfortunate to experience it.
Try shutting off the fan; the extra cooling can cause warp, and with a part that big they layers should cool plenty before the next without it.
You can't hold a ruler like that. If you hold it in the middle mabey you have around 1mm warping on each side. And much off that warping is beacuse off 80% fan and full infill.
Sorry trhuster, but I can hold a ruler any way I want.You can't hold a ruler like that. If you hold it in the middle mabey you have around 1mm warping on each side. And much off that warping is beacuse off 80% fan and full infill.
I am just showing the extent of the warp.
Thanks for the replies everyone, but are there any guidelines to using the fan and infill to avoid this?
I am fine with the modelling side, as I do that for a living, but totally new to 3d printing at home. 😊
Thruster was only trying to help you.
What he means is that we can’t see where is the warping, that way the ruler bends. Doesn’t works as a reference.
As Labrat pointed, shut of the fans.
You need fans on intricately details but at expense of stiffness. Better saying, much fan allows delamination and warping.
More infill, more mass, more warping.
Closed printer also helps avoid warping, and slowly cooling of the print.
You need fans on intricately details but at expense of stiffness. Better saying, much fan allows delamination and warping.
More infill, more mass, more warping.
Yep. As a rule of thumb, the least fan you can get away with the will give you the lowest chance of delamination and warping (it's really only used to prevent sag on small/thin features).
Warp is due to shrinkage, which is a percentage of size. What this means is the longer a feature is, the larger the absolute amount of shrinkage will occur. To avoid this, you can design in holes and other features to prevent long continuous layers. Look here for a great reference: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhfrHo53K18
I am at a loss!
Another print with new roll of zultrat, and more warpage.
The print was stuck nicely to bed and raft, printed with 3 sides enclosed, left for a few hours to cool.
Printed at 0.14 layer, fan off, bed levelled, light infill.
Not sure where I am going wrong?
I also printed the rod at the same time, and notice a bit of delamination on the underside of it.
I bought this printer mainly to print enclosures, but I doubt that will work with the amount of warping I am seeing.
Maybe I am missing something very fundamental.....I don't know. :-(
Is there anything that can be done post print to "stress relieve" the print, i.e. stick it in an oven for an amount of time?
Maybe you should try Z-HIPS filament, Zortrax says that it is the best choice to make enclosures.
I too need to make plastic enclosures for my electronics projects, but honestly I am waiting for the next update of Z-Suite that should handle better the Z-HIPS filament. Let’s cross our fingers…
Maybe you should try Z-HIPS filament, Zortrax says that it is the best choice to make enclosures.
I too need to make plastic enclosures for my electronics projects, but honestly I am waiting for the next update of Z-Suite that should handle better the Z-HIPS filament. Let’s cross our fingers…
Yes, I bought a roll of zhips as well, but waiting as you are for the next update.
Z-HIPS warped for me too in early printing attempts, but the bigger problem was that it was nearly impossible to cleanly remove the raft from the part. Perhaps the next Z-Suite release will bring improvements in that area.
Mike
The more I read about this, the more confusing it gets…
It seems there are 2 different types of deformation, warping of a part, which needs heat and no fan to help, and curling of overhangs, which need cool and high fan…is this correct?
If it is, how do we change the fan speed during a print, or is this what auto fan does?
The more I read about this, the more confusing it gets........
It seems there are 2 different types of deformation, warping of a part, which needs heat and no fan to help, and curling of overhangs, which need cool and high fan…is this correct?
If it is, how do we change the fan speed during a print, or is this what auto fan does?
You have a slight misunderstanding: overhangs sag, not curl. When the hot plastic is extruded onto a very thin feature (small features/decorations and overhangs alike), in the semi-molten state it is very prone to continue flowing causing drooping/sagging. To counteract this, the fan is needed to cool it as quickly as possible to stop it from continuing to flow after it is deposited where it's supposed to stay.
The downside to this is that quicker cooling results in lower inter-layer strength (leading to delamination) and the potential to curl the longer runs.
Oh, and yes, auto fan supposedly adjusts the fan speed during the print based on the features being printed.
Why did you use full infill? That also causes more warping. Light infill is enough for most everything and doesn't warp as much.
That along with closing the printer sides and letting the part cool for a while is enough to keep the part mostly flat. Bigger parts with more material can warp still though. Sometimes I adjust the design of the part as Labrat mentioned to get a better result.
Why did you use full infill? That also causes more warping. Light infill is enough for most everything and doesn't warp as much.
That along with closing the printer sides and letting the part cool for a while is enough to keep the part mostly flat. Bigger parts with more material can warp still though. Sometimes I adjust the design of the part as Labrat mentioned to get a better result.
Hi the6uest.
In post #8 I attached another pic of a part…did eveything as suggested and still warped.
Try to print it upright. The smaller the footprint, the better. All FDM printers have trouble with larger flat or boxy objects like enclosures…I have seen warped bottoms even on Stratasys prints. It’s the physics of the process.
In this particular case you could try it upright or split the part in the middle, then print the two halves upright…I personally would also add ~1 mm to each bottom which then can be sanded flat in case there is still some warp. Then acetone the two together.
Of course you can also design it differently…which means interrupted (corrugated) walls, hollowed out inner structure.
Also…and I did that successfully on flat parts…you can try to bend it back to a certain degree. Heat the part with a heat gun, bend it, and then hold until cool. Works well at least on smaller stuff but takes some practice.
Here a good case study…
http://palmiga.com/design-2/design/warpage-curl-free-3d-printing/
Try to print it upright. The smaller the footprint, the better. All FDM printers have trouble with larger flat or boxy objects like enclosures...I have seen warped bottoms even on Stratasys prints. It's the physics of the process.
In this particular case you could try it upright or split the part in the middle, then print the two halves upright…I personally would also add ~1 mm to each bottom which then can be sanded flat in case there is still some warp. Then acetone the two together.
Of course you can also design it differently…which means interrupted (corrugated) walls, hollowed out inner structure.
Also…and I did that successfully on flat parts…you can try to bend it back to a certain degree. Heat the part with a heat gun, bend it, and then hold until cool. Works well at least on smaller stuff but takes some practice.
Here a good case study…http://palmiga.com/design-2/design/warpage-curl-free-3d-printing/
Thanks for the tips Andre!
Well...just about ready to give up on this!
Most recent print, enclosure front panel.
Black Zultrat (haven't tried zhips yet)
0.14 layer
normal speed
light infill
no fan
Frustrating when you have a 1 day print, and it detaches itself from the raft halfway through. Raft still stuck firmly to bed. :angry:
This is long, thin, and tall = super bad for warping
Can’t tell exactly how thin it is but it may even have been better to have this flat on the platform.
Or again…split and print upright.
You can’t complain if you don’t follow the tips 
BTW …more as a general discussion…I’m not so sure if less infill really helps to reduce warping.
IMO the infill doesn’t really pull that much because it’s usually diagonal. And the additional stiffness it gives to the part may even help to reduce the effect of the pulling walls.