Z-PLA Pro


#21

I've worked with the M300 for some time now and printed both Z-Glass, Z-hips and Z-PETG without any real issues, I do have some extensive layer delamination but im 95% certain that this comes from printing multiply parts in one go (each layer will cool too much before next layer prints, which causes bad layer bonding. My biggest concern that whats holding my back printing large stuff at is the infill. If I print a 25x25x25cm part I cant print it at 20% infill (which is the lowest setting possible) That totally kills my ROI Calculations which I've made for the M300, but I know that this will be updated for the next version of the software! 

I hope your ASA prints better Photoholic! 


#22

For removing sticky prints (non genuine PLA, copperfill, sometimes Z_GLASS, ...) from the raft i use the scraper with the flat side on the part, then I gently push and pull it until the raft is free. Just be carefull because I pushed already a few holes in my hand with the edges of the scharp scraper, I dont wont to damage the part so I hold it by hand :).

I would love to try Z-PLA Pro and compare it with regular PLA. But at 60 euro for 800g it is very expensive. I'm very happy with the PLA I'm using now, it gets almost the same level of quality as Z-ULTRA but at 46 euro for 2300g. So I'm not sure if I will buy a even a test rol at that price point.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2273935-> example of PLA multiple colors, snoopy is in ABS

Keep up the road your taking zortrax because it is convincing people to buy a printer now it is not vendor locked on materials. Very happy with the printer. Would love to see a dual color mixing extruder someday.


#23

Thanks a lot Brett90... and also Marcin... I guess I could fix half of the issue.... the fact I was also not able to print Glass (also extrusion problems already during loading) pointed in a hardware direction... I guess I had a partially clogged hotend... changed it now and glass is printing fine.

Will try again with PLA later and if it works I have to appologize (even if there ARE some issues with the soft- and firmware)... I really hope so...


#24

I guess the design of the V2 Hotend could be improved... the short time I'm with the M300 I had to change it now for the second time.... btw...


#25

Brett90 :

Have you been able to print PLA on the M200?

What are your settings ?

I have already tried with a PLA from another brand with external materials Z_PLA based filament : but failed !

What temperature of aluminum plate ?

What temperature for the extruder ?

Thank you for your answers !


#26

Prior to Z-Suite 1.11.1 I printed various PLA with the standard Z-Glass profile. Since Z-Suite 1.11.1 I print with the Z-Glass-based profile at 245C Hotend and 50C bed temperature. Ext. Flow Ratio + 2-3%. Hotend V1 and V2, GermanRepRap Premium PLA and PLA of Velleman.


#27

thanks a lot ramosoft!!!!

meanwhile I'm definitely sure the main problem was my hotend... the Z-PLA is printing this moment... loos pretty good... will upload images of the finished print and the tell about the raft-object-separation.


#28

I think I did not print ABS for almost a year on my M200, just PLA and the like. To me it makes no sense to print PLA at 245°C, most are rated up to 220 (except some high temp blends, but not the ones mentioned). I question the results with such high temps. I print according to the manufacturer recommendation at 190-210° mostly at the lower range of the recommended temp. Never used anything else than the ABS profile. For the temp control I still use my Z-Temp, it's just the most convenient.


#29

Cool countdigit... my success is not exactely on that level :)

It prints Z-PLA now... but I can not separate print from raft. I tried even with freezing... no way.

I also tried S3D with Z-Tool again. Better... but I have to tweak bed and extrusion temp I guess... 

Argh... it's boooooriiing...


#30

Thanks for the pictures.

There is today the Z-Suite V1,11,2 : maybee.... ?


#31

really? will try tomorrow thanks a lot Axel…


#32

Z-PLA is printing... 1.11.2... hold your breath :)


#33

Argh... I'm turning completely crazy... found a new issue with Z-PLA (Z-Suite 1.11.2).

If I slice the attache file for HIPS or ABS the little holes on the top are visible... if I slice it for Z-PLA the small holes are gone....


#34

Result Z-PLA Pro with Z-Suite 1.11.2:

PRINT CAN NOT BE SEPARATED FROM RAFT!!!! IT'S ABSOLUTELY COMPLETELY MELTED TOGETHER!!!!!

Sorry but this is becoming so extremely boring


#35

S3D/Z-Tool failed too...

Will now try with Z-Suite, External Material, PLA based, 40 degree bed, 205 degree extruder, pause immediately after raft to cool down a bit.

Argh III


#36

failed... FAILED!!!! arrrghhhh IV

Back to Z-HIPS... back to small objects... on an M300... adios Z-PLA Pro

Note to myself: "The 500$ Prusa was pretty good with PLA wasn't it?"


#37

Have you tried other PLA ?

And with the Z-glass profil ?


#38

I think I did not print ABS for almost a year on my M200, just PLA and the like. To me it makes no sense to print PLA at 245°C, most are rated up to 220 (except some high temp blends, but not the ones mentioned). I question the results with such high temps. I print according to the manufacturer recommendation at 190-210° mostly at the lower range of the recommended temp. Never used anything else than the ABS profile. For the temp control I still use my Z-Temp, it's just the most convenient.

 
I think 245C in the software are not 245C at filament. If I measure the temp of the exiting filament, then it is 220-225C. I do not use Z-TEMP !!!
Under 235C comes no filament, the extruder just clicks! This is since the first day so, which is why I have already over years with the profile Z-glass any PLA print, whether with Hotend V1 or V2. The same applies to the bed, 90C in the software are about 60-65C measured at the bed.
 
EDIT: Thermocouppler and Heater are changed, but the same results of Temps. measured !

#39

The filament temperature you measure is not the one that the filament is melted at inside the hotend, you measure a fan cooled nozzle tip at best!

Z-Glass printing temps have been 255° and 260° at print start in older versions, don't know if that was changed now. You are printing it over the specs, that's it.

The M200 hotend V1 and V2 are known to have issues with several PLA brands and other non Zotrax Filaments. This should be no issue for Z-PLA of course. 

So changing the hotend or PLA brand could solve the issue. Z-Temp is not a factor here since you can set the temp now in Z-Suite, just mentioned that to describe my printing environment correctly.

Printing PLA that hot, welds it to the raft and that's exactly the issue of photoholic. Of course a too low initial nozzle distance could influence this also.


#40

Photoholic ;

Would it be possible for you to take a picture with the Z-ABS pure white and the Z-PLA PRO ?

Are they very different ?