Z-PLA Pro


#41

yes the Z-PLA has such a very nice bone-style yellowish-white-look. Very good contrasts in small details... whereas the ABS and the HIPS "gulp" the contrasts a little more imho... I'd really like to print this Z-PLA but unfortunately it's not possible with current firm- and software.

I would even go so far and say for successful PLA printing Zortrax has to change:

- Hotend

- Extruder (dynmic pressure)

- Software

:D


#42

Yes, we want printers M200 or M300 MK2 ! :rolleyes: :lol:

I have also a dream :  a very good M400 ! With Z-PLA in many different colors !


#43

And we want Zortrax to exchange them for freeeeeeeeeeeeeeee... yeeeah!  :P


#44

I will soon try BIG REP and INNOFIL PLA on my M200 : I will tell the result as soon as possible


#45

@photoholic,

Their are a few things you can try to easier remove the pla from raft.

First you can try to use the regular pla pribtibg profile and lower the printibg temperature by 10 degree and see if that changes things. Stay at your printer the first few minutes, if the extruder gear clicks stop the print, you might be able to print at lower temps.

If that fails you can try to use a small metal shim during pre height sensing. Look at the ones z-temp offer with their heating block.


#46

Received the first 2kg Z-PLA and Z-ASA spools today...

Was very excited to finally print PLA but only till the extruder started to click... and it's still clicking... argh... pleeeease!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=goXwmCroDL4

I just cleaned the extruder gear... so please somebody tell me: What's wrong here? Very expensive material for PLA should print "rocksolid" imho...

I guess you are having the same issue I had few months ago.

Have a look at the following videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MEmMG0QW2do

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_I4RJdYjtDI

I had that problem after printing an object with Z-GLASS material.

I think that the Z-GLASS material has a strong abrasive component and it ruined the filament feeding gear of the extruder motor.

I solve the problem only with the replacement of the whole extruder motor equipped with a new filament feeding gear.

I hope this help you, let me know.


#47

Check the feed pressure bearing and the screw that holds it. The bearings can wear out and the threads of the screw can get worn, resulting a non-straight bearing and this clicking problem. Even a small amount of wear on the threads can cause the problem.


#48

Check the feed pressure bearing and the screw that holds it. The bearings can wear out and the threads of the screw can get worn, resulting a non-straight bearing and this clicking problem. Even a small amount of wear on the threads can cause the problem.

Julia, how many hours did you clock up until you realized your bearing had gone? 


#49

Hi Andy, I'm terrible at keeping track of printing hours, sorry. It was probably toward the end of my second year of ownership that I found the bearing needed replacement. The worn thread thing was discovered by my husband last year (3rd year of operation) after a long and frustrating battle with inexplicable clicking. It never occurred to me to replace that screw, but as soon as we did, the problem vanished.


#50

Hi, I use a M300 since 4 months now. And I just tried to print with Z-PLA pro a few days ago and it was a disaster. It was the same problem as @PHOTOHOLIC.

We are in 2018 almost in 2019 know ?! What do I have to do  :( ?

Thanks 


#51

https://support.zortrax.com/tips-for-printing-with-z-pla-pro/


#52

Don’t buy this expensive b…y s…t Z-temp hothend. If you want to print PLA, just put a V3 hothend from M200+,M300+ or a micro Swiss hothend. No chance to print PLA with a V2 hothend without troubles…