I own a couple of M200's, thinking about upgrading to this v2 bandwagon.
Has anyone noticed any improvements whatsoever? From Andre’s report there doesnt seem to be much different.
Please note that I only reported about the aluminum heater block itself. The feed tube is totally different on the V2 since it has an insulating insert.
*This is my opinion on the matters, this does not reflect the opinions of any other resellers or Octave*
I believe I understand the displeasure with the way the V2 hot end has been rolled out. Upon talking with other users it boils down to a recall issue, by this I mean that the Z-Glass material and others were promised to work with the M200. As we all know Z-Glass is the only released material to not work with the V1 heating block, and as such Zortrax made a mistake by allowing it (Z-Glass) to be sold. As much as a bad decision this was it had been made and we have to accept it. There is no reason to rehash this.
Now we go to the present, as of right now all machines Zortrax is shipping has the V2 upgrade installed. Leaving all those with the V1 hot end to have to buy the upgrade allowing for the use of Z-Glass (and other future materials) which they may have already purchased and had multiple failed prints costing time and money. As I stated earlier that this is now a Recall issue, and here is the reasoning, if you buy a car and it has an issue with the air bags, the company makes a change to all models with said airbag in the line. Then they send out a recall notice essentially saying: hey we F'ed up and we put you in danger, give us the car and we will make it safe free of charge. This is what some of those who own the V1 are having issue with, they are having to pay for something they see as a Zortrax issue and something Zortrax should be covering.
This is made clear by LabRat's posts and the others discomfort in this matter that has been raising over the last few weeks. Now I have no problem with having to buy the V2 Hot end, however as Zortrax stated, the parts are now being machined in-house thus the costs of production would be reduced, only slightly I would assume, than that of having the machining done elsewhere. Now I will not claim to know the figures or even speculate on the costs of machining as this is not my field but I do have some basic knowledge of this subject, simple economics really.
There are other angles of this that I am not going to go in-depth on simply because I do not feel the need to make this post longer than it already is and I feel this will most likely get tagged.
Hope you all enjoyed this post and see that this is just an objective look at these events with the V2 Hot End.
-Michael
so is there any fix to the not heating issue cuz my new printer with new hotend will not heat it is just suck between 98% and 99%.
I heard this could be a software issue that is going to be patched in the near future. In the meantime there is a fix you can do:
1. Remove the top cover of the extruder
2. Wait for the extruder to hang at 98%-99%
3. Unplug the heater on the top of the extruder, this would be the 5 pin connector. (on most machines the top left connection).
4. plug it back in right away and the print should start.
This is in no way a guarantee that this will work and I am unsure as to if this is the full workaround.
Or my current method is to when the extruder hits 98% I turn the switch on my "Z-Temp" module down 10 degrees and the print starts, then turn the switch back to the setting I chose for the material my machine is using at the moment (ABS, HIPs, Nylon, Wood, PLA, Metal fills etc.) of the over 90 plus spools of plastic I currently have to play with.
Or my current method is to when the extruder hits 98% I turn the switch on my "Z-Temp" module down 10 degrees and the print starts, then turn the switch back to the setting I chose for the material my machine is using at the moment (ABS, HIPs, Nylon, Wood, PLA, Metal fills etc.) of the over 90 plus spools of plastic I currently have to play with.
Lol. 10…9…8…
yep it is coming soon.....
I heard this could be a software issue that is going to be patched in the near future. In the meantime there is a fix you can do:
1. Remove the top cover of the extruder
2. Wait for the extruder to hang at 98%-99%
3. Unplug the heater on the top of the extruder, this would be the 5 pin connector. (on most machines the top left connection).
4. plug it back in right away and the print should start.
This is in no way a guarantee that this will work and I am unsure as to if this is the full workaround.
Hey there Fans and Trolls!
We have been investigating this issue and working together with Michael as well as Zortrax directly in reporting and resolving this issue. This is a confirmed method of fixing the issue that any are finding with the V2 hotends "dancing around" at ~ 97% when preparing to print. We have tested this on several models experiencing the issue both in our own inventory as well as with customers that have received their units and then reported the issue. We then reached out to Michael do similar testing (so far it has been a complete work around. Several have found that after doing it once they don't have to do it again ever and I have no current reports of anyone that this has not solved the issue)
Please if you:
1. Need further instruction
2. Feel unclear as to exactly what to do
3. Just prefer 1-on-1 guidance when servicing your machine
Don't hesitate to reach out to us or Michael by private messaging here on the forums or for phone assistance I can be reached at (435) 770-1164 and would be happy to assist you that way also.
I just don’t get how the new hotend could cause these heating issues…it’s the same block of aluminum in regards to the inside dimensions. I think it has more to do with the installation of the heater cartridge and sensor… It’s important that the heater is not pushed all the way in, otherwise the set screws will not push it against the block and you get an insulating air gap. Could the people with heating issues please post some close up pics of the cartridge/sensor side?
Everyone should invest in a cheap 10$ caliper set, then measure out the OD of the cartridge/sensor and the ID's in the block. If you find a gap of significance, cover the modules in tin foil to close the gap.
there done on that front!
-Michael
have you guys tried thermal grease instead of foil? (the one we use to facilitate the heat transfer between cpus and heatsinks) just for testing purposes to see if that helps in these cases. even though it seems to be more electric related...
have you guys tried thermal grease instead of foil? (the one we use to facilitate the heat transfer between cpus and heatsinks) just for testing purposes to see if that helps in these cases. even though it seems to be more electric related...
Most readily-available heatsink compounds are only rated for 180ºC or so, so they are unsuitable for this application. High-temperature compounds exist but they tend to be rare and expensive. Thermal compound generally needs to be non-conductive electrically, but here we don't care about that, so Michael's idea of aluminum foil is good, and will provide better thermal conductivity than grease anyway.
i stand corrected :)
I wonder if the V2 aluminum block is anodized and the V1 not, or the V2 has much thicker anodizing? Aluminum oxide has about 1/6 the thermal conductivity of aluminum.....
I wonder if the V2 aluminum block is anodized and the V1 not, or the V2 has much thicker anodizing? Aluminum oxide has about 1/6 the thermal conductivity of aluminum.....
V1 is anodized.. Could be though.. Maybe I should make a copper block.. Hmmm....
V1 is anodized.. Could be though.. Maybe I should make a copper block.. Hmmm....
Maybe your prints would droop too much, then :o
Got my V2 Hot End today.
Installed it....but small heater unclamped from wire so I had to put the old wire I had from my first hot end in rather than trying to reclamp the heater end; and it heated up perfectly!
I watched and waited for an error since i saw all the issues on here but my Printer said he wasn't having any of that! lol
Cheers.
Got my V2 Hot End today.
Installed it....but small heater unclamped from wire so I had to put the old wire I had from my first hot end in rather than trying to reclamp the heater end; and it heated up perfectly!
I watched and waited for an error since i saw all the issues on here but my Printer said he wasn't having any of that! lol
Cheers.
Wait, what? "Small heater" - do you mean the thermocouple?? "Put the old wire" - what do you mean? You have to be careful with thermocouples, because it is the wires themselves that are the sensing elements - you can't use just any old wire, the two wires are made of different (and special) materials, and you can't make splices (unless you know what you're doing).
Wait, what? "Small heater" - do you mean the thermocouple?? "Put the old wire" - what do you mean? You have to be careful with thermocouples, because it is the wires themselves that are the sensing elements - you can't use just any old wire, the two wires are made of different (and special) materials, and you can't make splices (unless you know what you're doing).
When I ordered a Hot End last year I replaced all the wires since the Hot End came with new wires. Well the little thermocoupler on that one I installed came undone so I got my box out with the original wires from the original Hot End and replaced the thermocoupler. Instead of just pushing the wire back in and trying to reclamp the wires onto the thermocoupler I went with the original wire.
It's all Zortrax wires. Only difference being is the the colors of wires. green/white, red/white and black vs red, black and black. But they are all hooked where they are supposed to go and works perfectly.
I guess I should've been more clear in my post. Sorry Julia
I'm not smart enough to just go replacing wires with hum drum wires. :lol: :lol:
If you changed the entire thermocouple (the small tube that goes into the block and the wires that come out of it), it should be fine. Those wires are the thermocouple, they're not just wires connecting the tube to the circuit.