Yup. Replaced the hole thing. Found it much easier to feed through the block hole when the bottom fan holder was taken down. lol
You'll notice the original that is on there has different colored wires from the newer ones but all the same size.
Yeah I don't know what happened. I loosened the grub screw and the wire popped out with out the coupler. I was surprised because it has been running great. lol Just glad I had an extra wire/coupler
Glad to hear it's working without any problem reaching temperature! :)
Most readily-available heatsink compounds are only rated for 180ºC or so, so they are unsuitable for this application. High-temperature compounds exist but they tend to be rare and expensive.
You are right Julia, Arenco has some interesting products , like "Heat-away 640" copper grease and "Heat away 641" silver grease , up to 280° C .
The 640 cost 121 $ for a pint, 550 cm3.
I guess a pint would be enough for all M200 in Usa.
Just found this.. No price though.. http://www.timtronics.com/PDF/hightemp/Red%20Ice%20611.pdf
I just install a new v2 hot end, & nozzle. I printed and it took at least 40 minutes, (stuck at 98) before it finally began. I am now attempting my second print and over an hour has went by with it seemingly stuck at 98. I've had this printer 8 days total and this has been the behavior throughout. ANY suggestions? I saw a post about flipping a switch having a positive effect but have no idea what it was referring to. Currently the room is 80 degrees, I have all doors installed and there's no draft. I'm using a new spool of z-abs.
I saw a post about flipping a switch having a positive effect but have no idea what it was referring to.
I was the one that made the remark.
I have "Z-temp" module installed on my extruder and it lets me adjust the temp up or down to suit the material I want to use, when the extruder reaches about 98% it gets stuck so I switch the "Z-temp" down 10 degrees and the system thinks it has reach operating temp and begins to print, I then turn the switch temp back up to the target temp and everything goes as planned.
I currently have an "UP Plus Pro" and a "Zortrax M200", both modded by me to work with any of the over 100 spools of plastics I currently have in almost every material and color currently on the market.
Since Zortrax will not give me, a USA consumer, a warranty on the machine I bought I can make any modifications I choose with the understanding that I am responsible for any issues that arise.
I just install a new v2 hot end, & nozzle. I printed and it took at least 40 minutes, (stuck at 98) before it finally began. I am now attempting my second print and over an hour has went by with it seemingly stuck at 98. I've had this printer 8 days total and this has been the behavior throughout. ANY suggestions? I saw a post about flipping a switch having a positive effect but have no idea what it was referring to. Currently the room is 80 degrees, I have all doors installed and there's no draft. I'm using a new spool of z-abs.
http://forum.zortrax.com/index.php?/topic/1245-firmware-error-very-high/
Try with new ribbon cable first. If it won't work, something is wrong with extruder PCB or buiild platform.
Contact support anyway.
Thanks for all replies. The printer is now 9 days old. Please keep in mind that this heating behavior was occurring since unboxing, I had attempted to remove a clogged nozzle and accidentally stripped the nozzle in the hotend because I failed to heat it first. My mistake/lesson learned. I ordered another from Zortrax, along with a new bed because of what I'd read that it may possibly be the problem. I have installed both the new bed and the v2 hotend and new nozzle. It's essentially a brand new printer AGAIN...LOL. I have now gotten three prints from it and all took 1+ hours to "heat up extruder" every time. I had one attempt that never did start and sat there for 4 hours. I merely shut down the printer and restarted it and after about an hour it finally began. As I mentioned, this behavior has been like this since I unboxed. Did I get a lemon or have I done something else wrong due to my newbieness. I don't know but it seems like there may be something like a sensor that needs to be repositioned, replaced or adjusted, but I have no idea what i'm talking about as this is my first 3D printer. Doesn't matter to me as long as there's a fix and can get back to printing. I appreciate all listening to my story. I'm committed to getting to the bottom of this and enjoying printing.
could be a defective ribbon cable also, I would check with seller to repair or exchange the printer.
when it is stuck at 98-99% for more than 4-5 minutes try to move the heat cartridge cables up an down a bit and report back if you see any different behaviour
"Heat cartridge cables"? Don't think I've seen that term before. Can you define further? Thanks
i mean the heater cables
Thanks for clearing that up for me. I'll try it at once.
Thanks for clearing that up for me. I'll try it at once.
BE CAREFUL, due to the high heat and high current passing through the heater you can be hurt and you can break the connections.
BE CAREFUL
:o :o
I'm dying to know that it means to change the tube to resolve the heating issue. This is maddening. I up to two hours go between prints waiting for the percent to go from 98% to beginning to print. Is this a problem with my prints or what? Driving me crazy! I'd like to do more than one print per day!
I'm dying to know that it means to change the tube to resolve the heating issue. This is maddening. I up to two hours go between prints waiting for the percent to go from 98% to beginning to print. Is this a problem with my prints or what? Driving me crazy! I'd like to do more than one print per day!
No, it's not your prints, and it's not normal behavior - extruder heating should take no more than a few minutes. Some users have had this problem with the V2 hot end, others have had no problem. No explanation or solution has been issued by Zortrax AFAIK.
The "feed tube" is the vertical stainless steel tube through which the filament passes before getting to the nozzle. It is bolted into the aluminum heat block by two M3 machine screws. The V2 tube has a plastic sleeve in it whereas the V1 did not. The V2 heat block has curved sides, whereas the V1 had flat sides. Some people who experienced the heating problem found that removing the V2 tube from the V2 block and installing it in a V1 block (keeping the same heater cartridge and thermocouple) solved the problem (for unknown reasons).
Others have hypothesized that the problem is due to poor thermal contact between the heater cartridge and/or the thermocouple and the heater block, and that the grub screws that hold them are not tightened enough or there is too much clearance in the bores they are inserted into.
The system is conceptually simple: the heater cartridge gets hot, the heat passes through the aluminum block to the thermocouple, and when the thermocouple reports sufficient temperature to the motherboard, the heating cycle is deemed complete.
julia
I will spend the day checking into all that you mentioned. Thanks for the clarification and informaition. I'll post results asap.
I should take both the V1 and V2 aluminum blocks in to our material analysis guy at WD and see if it is an issue of the type of aluminum or finish.
That would be interesting. What I have been doing to get things to print, (I already have the side panels), is turn printer off, relocate printer head from front left, (finishing position) to middle right but not all the way against the side, (as if this should matter and don't ask me why I did that...it just worked), and then redid my print with the "fan" option set to "off". It still takes a hellova long time, (30min to an hour at times), during extruder heat up I take a paper towel and make sure there's no residue, etc on nozzle also and then it will start.
Have you tried tightening (gently) the tiny grub screws that clamp the heater and thermocouple into the block, to improve thermal contact? Or loosening them, wiggling/repositioning the elements in the block, and then retightening?
Also maybe unplugging and replugging the connectors on the extruder PCB in case there's a poor contact there? With regard to the thermocouple connections, thermal contact is important as well as electrical, and the heater draws a lot of current so electrical contact is important there.